To pleat to the sett or pleat to the stripe, that is the question

[wsk]

On the question of why the tartan is not square...

Tidbits for the second edition ...

So, answer me this: If I have a swatch in my hand and pull gently along the warp or weft (I don't know which because it's only a swatch), can I deduce by how the fabric stretches which is warp and which is weft?

The Polaris swatch I have is more stretchy in one direction than it is in the other.

And a sett is the full repeat of the tartan, where you can start over again and get exactly the same pattern of stripes. ...

Just read that in your book. All straight now, thanks.