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  1. #1
    Join Date
    19th September 05
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    Richland, Washington
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    Tire chains recommendations?

    So this whole winter driving thing is new to me, just moved to eastern WA from SoCal this summer. The weather really isn't too bad here, not much snow or ice, just damn cold. However, I'm looking to head over the hills to Seattle for a weekend or two before winter is over, and would like to be somewhat prepared if need be.

    I've thought about getting some of the diagonal zig-zag Z-cable type. I've had a couple folks say they work great, and a couple others say they're crap. I guess basically I'm wondering if I should go with the Z-cable setup or a more traditional diamond pattern chain setup.

    Now, if it makes a difference, this is for my Mitsubishi Mirage, a small FWD hatchback.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    9th June 06
    Location
    Midland, TX
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    I used both on a Suzuki Samurai when I lived in Utah. I think you would get great results from the zlink style considering your vehicle.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    30th June 06
    Location
    Lotusland, Canada
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    On a front wheel drive, try to avoid traditional chains. Stay with a cable type otherwise your suspension will take a beating.
    Gentleman of Substance

  4. #4
    Join Date
    12th December 06
    Location
    Aurora, Colorado, USA
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    For a vehicle that small, I like a parallel cable type. You know, the kind that look like this: IIIIIIII Made out of cables with little metal rings on the cross pieces to bite the ice.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    2nd February 04
    Location
    Duvall, WA, USA
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    The regular cable chains will be good enough. That said, it might be worthwhile checking some of the used tire shops in the tri-cities area for some decent snow tires. I have a set of four Gislaved NordFrost Q snow tires on my '83 Volvo wagon. Haven't had any trouble in the latest snowstorm getting around. The previous one, I did have a couple issues, but that was because I was trying to go up a hill at 10 mph and had the person in front of me almost stop.

    A suggestion I do have, whichever route (chains or studs) you go, tend to use the higher gears, but let the car run at a lower rpm than normal. Yes, you may be lugging it a bit, but you'll keep your traction. By the time I'm travelling 25-30 mph, I'm already in 4th gear when I'm in snowy conditions. Also, be light on the throttle. Another thing I learned pretty quickly in the second snowstorm I ever drove in, when you need to make a turn while going downhill, don't hit the brakes. If it's icy, the car goes straight even if your steering wheel is turned. Once I released the brake pedal, I made the turn, no problem.

    -J

  6. #6
    Join Date
    24th August 05
    Location
    TUSCON AZ south of PHENIX :)
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    one thing I miss about my standard trans. vehicle .....snow driving was SO much easier in that you could regulate speed better and down shift for those turns!

    my automatic 4X4 ....not so much!!
    Irish diplomacy: is telling a man to go to he)) in such a way that he looks forward to the trip!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    19th September 05
    Location
    Richland, Washington
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    I'm not too worried about snow driving technique, I'm familiar enough with that. Spent a few years back in central Missouri, had some good icy days (weeks!) there. I don't particularly want to deal with snow tires, just bought new tires for the car a couple months ago, and for 95% of the winter here the roads are clean and dry. I'm looking at chains to have should I get stuck with bad weather on the pass.

    Oh, and I do have a manual transmission, and am used to short-shifting when needed, even starting out in second gear sometimes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Mikey
    On a front wheel drive, try to avoid traditional chains. Stay with a cable type otherwise your suspension will take a beating.
    Why would it take any more beating than rear wheel drive using traditional chains?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    12th December 06
    Location
    Aurora, Colorado, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zyzzyx View Post
    Why would it take any more beating than rear wheel drive using traditional chains?
    The thickness of the links of chain cause a bump-bump-bump effect that is bad for the cv joints of a front wheel drive vehicle. On a rear wheel drive, you have a solid axle with a differential in the center.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    19th September 05
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    Richland, Washington
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    Ah... I do enough wrenching (including having replaced my front axles myself) that I should've realized that.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    21st February 04
    Location
    Michigan
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    Check the local regulations. In some places (like where I live, for instance,) they're illegal for road use.
    An uair a théid an gobhainn air bhathal 'se is feàrr a bhi réidh ris.
    (When the smith gets wildly excited, 'tis best to agree with him.)

    Kiltio Ergo Sum.
    I Kilt, therefore I am. -McClef

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