Making a 4-yard, Box Pleat in the California Tartan:an ongoing thread

[Barb T]

I commonly cut 16 oz tartan, because I find that the threads are so strong that many of them "pull" before they tear, leaving little tracks in the fabric next to the rip. I've experimented with pulling harder and faster, but I still have the problem. Maybe if I had bulging biceps I could avoid this.

Has anyone else seen this when they rip tartan??

B

[Angus]

I commonly cut 16 oz tartan, because I find that the threads are so strong that many of them "pull" before they tear, leaving little tracks in the fabric next to the rip. I've experimented with pulling harder and faster, but I still have the problem. Maybe if I had bulging biceps I could avoid this.

Has anyone else seen this when they rip tartan??

B

13oz rips clean for me, was allot easier than cutting. Have you noticed that it makes a little edge that is impervious to unraveling? I haven't ripped 16oz yet. Kinda shy of ripping $80 Scottish wool, its stupid I know, but I just see that tear going off sideways and ruining the cloth.....When I get the nerve Ill let you know how it went.

I think that you cant be gentle, you gotta put some muscle into it. YMMV...

Alan H.
I know I am the wrong person to be saying this, but I would really like to see some pics of you putting it together.

[Barb T]

I agree that 13 oz rips fine. It's just the 16 oz that I have trouble with. Even when I pull hard and fast, I have trouble with the little tracks. Maybe it's because I'm little and don't have much leverage.

B

[way2fractious]

Those who make lots of kilts rip the wool tartan for two good reasons: 1) it gets the job done quickly, without having to pull a couple more threads and pick up lots of little thread bits, and 2) it produces the straight line with built-in ravel-resistance mentioned earlier. I've cut both 13 oz and 16 oz, and ripped both weights of wool also. Ripping is generally preferable; cutting is perfectly acceptable.

Fabrics other than wool are cut. Most do not rip easily. Even cotton broadcloth, which does rip, leaves a curled edge which needs to be ironed flat again.

[Eujeankilt]

I just read about ripping wool fabric in Barb's book this past weekend. Could someone explain the technique? Do you just grab it and pull or do you hold down the stationary edge and pull straight back? I'm trying to picture it, having never seen it done before.

(Obviously, I'm considering making a wool, tartan kilt and inquiring minds want to know)

Thanks in advance,

Dale

[way2fractious]

I just read about ripping wool fabric in Barb's book this past weekend. Could someone explain the technique?

After measuring twice (or three times, with a lunch break between ) from the selvedge to the rip line, add two or three threads and make a cut of two or three inches. Pick the tartan up and hold it out in front of you so that it drapes down, with one hand on each side of the cut. In a quick motion, tear it downward for about two feet, trying to keep an even tension on both sides. Repeat the process until you reach a couple inches from the end (should take 5 or 6 times for four yards of tartan.) Cut the last couple inches to prevent those threads from pulling out funny.

Try it on some pieces of cotton first to get the feel of it. It really is fun.

[Eujeankilt]

After measuring twice (or three times, with a lunch break between ) from the selvedge to the rip line, add two or three threads and make a cut of two or three inches. Pick the tartan up and hold it out in front of you so that it drapes down, with one hand on each side of the cut. In a quick motion, tear it downward for about two feet, trying to keep an even tension on both sides. Repeat the process until you reach a couple inches from the end (should take 5 or 6 times for four yards of tartan.) Cut the last couple inches to prevent those threads from pulling out funny.

Try it on some pieces of cotton first to get the feel of it. It really is fun.

Thanks, and I understand about measuring three times. Hopefully, fabric isn't as bad as wood - wood always shrinks or swells AFTER I measure it

Dale