X-Marks "Cheerleader" Skirt

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

I finally got started today! First, the kids both went to school. Then I packed Panache off as well. Poor man-had to hop in his convertible and go off golfing with Gryphonaire ...



Then, I went to my sewing room and got out my supplies and material. Understand, that when I say sewing room, what I really mean is the floor and lower shelf of my hall linen closet. That's it, that's all the space we have to spare!



Now came the hard part. I just sat down with the X-Kilt manual and my ideas and thought, thought, thought. I took stock of my available material-a 29 inch wide, 57 inch long strip of X-Marks tartan (the last of the prior run-therefore irreplaceable if I mess up!) and a 3 yard 45 inch wide strip of black cotton material.



I took my measurements and decided on the pleat size and how I could allocate my material to make what I want. I am going to try to pleat to the sett (minus a little in the solid blue areas to allow for the seams between the tartan and the black). This picture shows that process. I've determined that I cannot make 3 inch pleats and still have enough space between each strip for seam allowance. As it is, when I center a yellow stripe and a white stripe, I have just barely enough for a seam (just 0.25 inces on each side of the pleat) if I make the pleats 2.75 inches wide.



Just to show how complex this can be-let's see if the picture of my calculations turned out. The black material is going to be the inner pleats (4.5 inches), the under apron and the deep pleat under the over apron. The X-Marks tartan will be the outer pleats (2.75 inces), the front apron and the waistband.



I don't think I'll be able to do much more today, so anyone who reads this and sees a glaring calculation error-please let me know! Once I start ripping fabric, I can't go back!

Be well,

[Kilted KT]

looks like someone has really done her homework! can't wait to see the final product!

[way2fractious]

I don't think I'll be able to do much more today, so anyone who reads this and sees a glaring calculation error-please let me know! Once I start ripping fabric, I can't go back!

I'm guessing all your calculations are based on hip (or "rump") measurements. In that case, 11 reveals of 2.75 each is 30.25 inches, plus the 10-inch apron makes 40.25 inches total. That should still give you enough for the seam allowances. Don't forget seam allowances for the apron edges, too.

One word of caution: Ripping 3-inch strips of tartan can be dicey. Even if it doesn't go sideways on you, you'd still lose threads from the ripped edges which you need for the seam allowances. [deep voice] This case calls for scissors, Doctor.

(p.s. Irreplaceable tartan? Nahh. Squeeze out more just by cutting Panache's caloric intake so his XMarks kilt can be made smaller from his 4-yard tartan order. )

[Dirk Skene]

You are SO cruel! Sending that poor man off to golf while you have fun

Gotta see the finished product

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

I'm guessing all your calculations are based on hip (or "rump") measurements. In that case, 11 reveals of 2.75 each is 30.25 inches, plus the 10-inch apron makes 40.25 inches total. That should still give you enough for the seam allowances. Don't forget seam allowances for the apron edges, too.

One word of caution: Ripping 3-inch strips of tartan can be dicey. Even if it doesn't go sideways on you, you'd still lose threads from the ripped edges which you need for the seam allowances. [deep voice] This case calls for scissors, Doctor.

(p.s. Irreplaceable tartan? Nahh. Squeeze out more just by cutting Panache's caloric intake so his XMarks kilt can be made smaller from his 4-yard tartan order. )

You're right, I hadn't thought about the seam allowance for the apron. Luckily, I have enough. The other calculations match mine-look closely at my scribble .

I agree, ripping is not going to work. Damn, I hate trying to cut straight lines! And I can't use the stripes in the tartan to guide me, because I will be cutting in the plain blue areas . Ah well, I'll just be careful and get myself a long straight edge. What I really want is a drafting table, but there's no room in the house.

Actually, the new run of tartan is heavier, so the sett wouldn't match (oh my, I've become a Tartan Geek!). Therefore it is truly irreplaceable.

Be well,

[bubba]

Try using a rotary cutter instead of scissors.

[LordKiltClad]

I agree with the rotary cutter. I've cut fabric on a "self healing" mat on my drafting table (I know your jealous, but I'm in Architecture, so I have one), and using a long metal straight edge that reminds me of a large straight farm reaper blade, roll the blade along it. Very beautiful cuts, and not much waste at all.

[Bob C]

Irreplaceable tartan? Nahh. Squeeze out more just by cutting Panache's caloric intake so his XMarks kilt can be made smaller from his 4-yard tartan order. )

Have you SEEN Panache? There's not much of the boy to spare. That trick would work just fine with most of the rest of us, but not him.

I'll look forward to seeing the finished product, FHCAG.

[Alan H]

It took me a minute to figure this out, but now I'm getting everything but the Pleat to sett. I THINK this means that you want actual setts to show along the fell, and you'll taper from there to the waist. So the only place the olid color stuff will show is below the fell inside the box pleats? Tricky! You'll want to arrange as much taper as possible in the general "no stripe" blue area, I'm thinking. Duh!

This will look stunning when it's done.....but what if, WHAT IF....you used the dark blue material on the outside of the pleats and the tartan on the inside? When you first mentioned this, that's what I had in mind.

Fold it up and fake it with some pleats just to get an idea? I'm not quite sure how to accomplish that.

Whatever the case, I am REALLY looking forward to seeing this.

[The F-H.C.A.G.]

...This will look stunning when it's done.....but what if, WHAT IF....you used the dark blue material on the outside of the pleats and the tartan on the inside? When you first mentioned this, that's what I had in mind...

The reason I'm doing the black material on the inside is because it is 100% cotton, and I'm mildly allergic to wool. I agree that the other way would look really cool. But, as it turns out, I don't quite have enough X-Marks tartan to do it the other way anyhow, so it works out well.

Be well,