Plse Advise re: hemming a Phillabeg

[Scratchy's Lass]

I did an Xmarks search for "hemming a kilt" threads (http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...earchid=538009) and after some reading, I still have a question/clarification or two which I would love to receive some guidance for.

Scratchy wants to have his Phillabeg shortened - (we probably 'over measured' when we did the measurements for his Phillabeg from Celtic Croft/Kilts-N-Stuff.) He's also lost some waist and such ;) since we measured and ordered this passing winter.

I have reasonable sewing skills both by hand and w/a home machine, and have made my own Renfaire wear so hopefully I can go a good job of the hemming. Yet, my brain starts to fog over when I read some of the particulars posted in other 'hemming' threads/posts. Specifically, would it be appropriate for me to carefully hand hem his Phillabeg along the bottom edge, or would I need to do similar disassembly-type steps of which I've read, in order to properly shorten it by hemming?

This is a picture from mid-winter (Northern Az) after it first arrived -



This is a picture from the CC/KNS website showing the type we ordered:


I think part of my confusion stems from mentally applying info like the excerpts below, as I'm unsure whether a regular hem would be fine. And, I find myself getting visually lost in my head re Barb's second paragraph below.

For reference:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...hlight=hemming
Hemming a kilt
04-28-2006, 08:13 PM

05-01-2006, 04:46 PM Reply by Barb T.

But, if you're going to do it right, you'll need to take out the apron and underapron facings and edges, put the hem in, then re-do the edges. If you don't, the apron edge in particular will look odd.

Also, turn up the first deep pleat to the left of the apron about 1/2" more at the point so that the point doesn't hang below the bottom of the apron, and taper the underapron hem from the center of the underapron to the underapron edge so that the edge is about 1" shorter than the rest of the kilt. That keeps the underapron from drooping below the apron.

And, yes. Don't fold the selvedge edge over. Just turn the thing up 3", and don't cut it off.

Barb

Reply by AtagahiKC (w/specifics re: hemming a Saltire Kilt)

Barb/Steve: Would it be better to reduce the length of the kilt from the top? I know it involves reworking the kilt and probably increasing the fell.

I'm wondering if preserving the selvedge edge at the bottom and the flatness is more important than the time to rework the kilt from the top?. . .

So.... am I making this more complicated than it need be insofar as I'd be shorting-via-hemming Scratchy's Phillabeg ?

Any suggestions, pointers, and guidance would be greatly appreciated. If I've miss an existing thread that's already on point, could someone point me in that direction?

Thanks!!
m

[Barb T]

Hi

I don't know how this particular kilt is made, but, if it has a lining, canvas, and stitched pleats, I wouldn't shorten it from the top. Much too much work.

But, you can't just turn up the hem and blind stitch it. The fringe edge with the facing is too bulky, and it will look ugly if you just turn it up and stitch it. So, that's where you need to do a little taking out. Just remove all the stitches that hold the fringe edge together up as far as you need so that you can unfold all the fabric at the fringe edge and lay it out flat. Turn up and stitch the hem. Then just refold the facing and stick the second fringe strip back in, and stitch it back together.

At deep pleat under the left edge of the apron and at the left edge of the underapron, it helps to turn up a little extra so that nothing sags and shows beneath the edge of the kilt.

Does that help any?

Oh - and just make sure that he's wearing the kilt high enough. The buckles should be at his natural waist with the rise extending _above_ the waist. The picuture looks like he's wearing the top at his hip bone. A kilt is meant to be worn higher than pants.

Barb

[Pleater]

Both the photos make me itch to get the shirts a bit neater and the kilt higher - though the one on the webite looks rather short. It keeps making me think 'lampshade' every time I look at it.

To me, having a shirt bloused over a low slung kilt looks untidy and it isn't at all flattering.

It could be that rather than shortening, Scratchy's kilt wants tightening so it sits high enough to cover more shirt and show that weight loss.

If it was a solid colour kilt then perhaps shortening would be the thing, but it is tartan and so it has a history - it should be worn in keeping with its inheritance.

[davedove]

If I am understanding correctly, this is the phillabeg from Celtic Croft. If so, this is the untailored garment that you pleat each time you wear it and belt it on.

In this case, just pull up the kilt a little higher on the waist. Or, if you really don't want it any higher on your waist, just pull a little more of the material over the belt. You don't need to do ANY sewing.

[The Wizard of BC]

I also agree that the two kilts shown are being worn far too low for that style of kilt.

To find your natural waist, feel along the side and find the place just below the ribs where a small indentation will form when bending from side to side. That is where the top buckles should sit. The top edge of the fabric above the buckles will be higher and actually cover the short ribs in the back. In the front the top of the kilt will be above the naval by almost two inches depending on torso length. At the side the buckles will cinch into and sit very naturally just above the "love handles".

[Scratchy's Lass]

I could have sworn I took digital shots of the kilt's 'insides' - but I just checked and no, I didn't. I laid it all out on the couch and took pics before he got home from work the day it came in the mail, but didn't think to take pics of it opened up and such.

Scratchy ordered it with the pleats sewn in, it has a waist band, and side belted buckles and such. Here's their description of that from their site:

Cheater Pleats (Optional)

This is a nice convenience option. Your kilt will still look like you pleated it yourself, but you can take it off and put it back on any time you want to without redoing your pleats... What we do is pleat the kilt, then stitch a waistband inside to hold the pleats together. (Unless you select the strap and buckle option below, a belt will still be necessary to hold your kilt on).

I think I'm following ok..... until you talk about the hem vs. fringe edge aspect. I sure wish I wasn't such a dunce.

I won't be doing anything to it until we're in the same place again anyway, so maybe the adjustments that have been suggested re: wearing it too low proximate to the waist will be enough - won't know until I can fiddle around while he's wearing it (opps..... that's NOT supposed to sound bad)

I don't know how this particular kilt is made, but, if it has a lining, canvas, and stitched pleats, I wouldn't shorten it from the top. Much too much work.

But, you can't just turn up the hem and blind stitch it. The fringe edge with the facing is too bulky, and it will look ugly if you just turn it up and stitch it. So, that's where you need to do a little taking out. Just remove all the stitches that hold the fringe edge together up as far as you need so that you can unfold all the fabric at the fringe edge and lay it out flat. Turn up and stitch the hem. Then just refold the facing and stick the second fringe strip back in, and stitch it back together.

At deep pleat under the left edge of the apron and at the left edge of the underapron, it helps to turn up a little extra so that nothing sags and shows beneath the edge of the kilt.

[turpin]

I think what's meant here is this: the "bottom" of the kilt is the hemmed edge. The fringe edge is meant to indicate the vertical edge of the over-apron. On a traditionally constricted kilt there is usually one or two fringes on the over-apron. Attaching the fringes results in 2-4 layers of cloth at the fringe edge, top to bottom. Barb was saying it would look bad just to turn a hem on that many layers, assuming that the phillabeg is constructed that way. Her instructions are for turning a hem on a trad-constructed kilt. If the phillabeg doesn't have a fringed apron edge, and is only hemmed to finish the raw edge of the apron, then turning the hem should be a simple matter.

[mbhandy]

I think what is happening is by having the pleats sewn in the kilt has become a more traditional kilt. What is the length of the kilt from waist to knee?
From Celtic Croft:

What's a Phillabeg?
Modern, tailored kilts are often referred to incorrectly as "little kilts". The little kilt, or phillabeg, or feilidh-beag, was actually an earlier predecessor of today's modern kilt, and was not a tailored garment. It was simply a length of tartan about 25" wide and about 4 yds long, loosely bunched or pleated, and held about the waist with a belt. It was worn to about the middle of the knee, with a few inches of tartan flapping over the belt to help hold it on.


It just looks like the kilt is worn to low. Try it with a belt and not the straps and see how it fits. And as Pleater said reach up under that kilt and pull down the shirt.

Just my Thoughts

MrBill

[Scratchy's Lass]

It's beginning to sound more like a wearing adjustment than a length/hemming adjustment issue *whew*

m