Just slipping out of my kilt - good thing this is text not vision!! I find that there are 22 pleat reveals. This is one of the first kilts I made and I now normally have 20 reveals.

The first reveal each side is that of a 17 inch under apron pleat - that is 17 inches from the fold at the edge of the apron to the fold of the next pleat.

The smaller pleats are 7 and 1/4 inches, 10 each side, and they meet in the centre back where there is an inverted box pleat 7 inches wide - perfection would have made it 1/4 inch wider, but the material is joined and the seams had to fall so they made the inner folds of pleats.

I find the optimum is to have the reveal of the under apron pleat lying along the top of the thigh when I step up.

I think you will need to experiment to find the best position of the last pleats - that is how many inches more than half your circumference you need to make pleated in order to have enough expansion so the kilt is not too narrow at the thigh.

I think that more, smaller pleats will be better than fewer deeper pleats - and it will not matter if the pleats are Kinguisse style or normal knife as long as there are enough of them and there is enough material in them for fit and movement.

Now I am really tired just at the moment, and it is almost oh one hundred hours - but I just thought - how about putting in extra pleats in the front - rather than one large under apron pleat have two or three, with shaping, so the pleated width is extended 4 or 6 inches, but then have the apron hide them - so there is more material at the front of the kilt, but not obviously so.

Would that help solve the problem?