Quote Originally Posted by adam View Post

What do you mean by the apron wanting to taper?
The underside of the under apron pleat seems to be rolling out from beneath the apron, trying to ignore the sewn fold and pushing the front of the kilt into a concave shape.

If you want to insist that it remain straight and you spot it during the construction of the kilt you can counteract it by lifting the inner fold of the pleat above the level of the waistband just a fraction, so a small triangle of the folded fabric is taken out of the top of the pleat.

With a soft fabric you can sew along the top few inches of the inner edge of the pleat and ease it in shorter, and that will so the same thing, but with a rigid fabric like cotton it is not so easy.

Once the waistband is sewn the options are reduced, and it can sometimes be easier to allow the fabric to do what it is trying to do, undo the sewing, press out the fold, then resewing the edges of the apron and under apron so the front of the kilt is a /_\ shape rather than a l_l.

The apron and under apron are actually l_\ and /_l so what is actually there
is /l_\ if you have not shaped the free edge of the apron, but the total effect is of /_\ .

It is all part of the fine art of fitting, so you get a garment which is the best (most flattering) shape for your body, and is usually achieved by very small twists and subtractions or additions so as to pull or push the fabric into apparently lying straight or in smooth, usually convex, curves when being worn.