Differences in Mills?

**Peter C.** · 23rd August 07, 05:55 AM

Originally Posted by Captain

Yeah, and it's only sold through the clan association, who doesn't offer it for sale... Oh well, I'll have my Strathmore kilt in it and that's fine by me.

I don't know about you but I prefer the Strathmore version.

Peter

**davedove** · 23rd August 07, 06:42 AM

Originally Posted by Don Patrick

I think the lesson I learned here, is to purchase all items you need at the same time. Guess I need to try and expand my last order with Matt.

If you need items to match completely, such as a kilt and fly plaid, it's probably best to get them all at once, from the same run of cloth. Even different runs from the same mill can have minor variations in color.

**Rampant Lion** · 23rd August 07, 07:44 AM

I thought I'd show you guys something...

Can you see a difference..? I can't see a difference. My brother, on the right, had his kilt made in 2006. It's double-width 16oz Lochcarron Strome tartan.

I, on the left, had my kilt made in 2000. It's single-width 16oz Lochcarron Strome tartan.

Now, I too, would recommend that one try to purchase all tartan items, that are meant to match, at the same time. It's the most sure-fire way to get the match. However, it looks like a good mill, like Lochcarron, won't have much colour variation, even over years.

**davedove** · 23rd August 07, 08:10 AM

Originally Posted by Rampant Lion

I thought I'd show you guys something...
Now, I too, would recommend that one try to purchase all tartan items, that are meant to match, at the same time. It's the most sure-fire way to get the match. However, it looks like a good mill, like Lochcarron, won't have much colour variation, even over years.

Very true. I was able to match my kilt and fly plaid really well, even though they came from different places.

**MacSimoin** · 28th August 07, 08:42 AM

I have no experience with Lochcarron but I hope this post helps others see how much difference there can be in dye ranges as used by woolen mills...

When I had the Fitzsimmons tartan first woven by DC Dalgliesh in 2005, I was unhappy with the sett and the brightness of the dyes used in the wool. The sett was elongated (rectangular) and the colors weren't quite what I had in mind when designing the tartan. So, what to do---find another mill? Well, that's exactly what I did but bear in mind that Dalgliesh produces very good quality material (my dad has even joked of refinishing his billiards table with it!) and no one should assume that I'd not recommend them. In fact, I do.

About 6 months later I contacted the House of Edgar and requested yarn samples so I could get an idea of what their material would look like, whereas I was looking to have more material woven. In hindsight, I should have asked for samples beforehand when ordering from Dalgliesh; but remember, it wasn't that I was unhappy with the material, just the sett and brightness of the dyes they used. Regardless, I was very pleased with the small yarn samples (and the CAD image) that I received from Edgar, so I ordered 22m of material from them and had a kilt made while I was at it.

You can see the differences in the image below; both mills used the same thread count/colors. However, there's a distinct difference in appearance between these two kilts. The Edgar material and kilt (8 yd) is on the left, and the Dalgliesh material and Matt Newsome kilt (4 yd) is on the right. FYI, they're both beautiful kilts!

Long story short, I'm satisfied with the quality of material from both mills; however, the tartan you see on the left (above) is what I'd originally intended the Fitzsimmons tartan to look like. So, speaking from experience, if anyone reading this is looking to have material woven, I suggest you request yarn samples before you commit to placing your order. You live and learn, right?

**Captain** · 28th August 07, 08:50 AM

Wow. That's very good info. There's a huge difference there. Just a couple of follow up questions... When asking for a yarn sample, you would send them the tartan info (thread count, color, etc.) and they send you the yarns they would use for that tartan? Or is it just generic yarn samples to see the quality of their material? If you are unhappy with the yarn, do any of the mills work with you to get the look you want (especially if you actually own and/or created the tartan)?

Also, how does the House of Edgar do limited runs? What's the minimum amount of fabric and what does it run per yard/meter?

**MacSimoin** · 28th August 07, 08:57 AM

Captain,

Dalgliesh will do a minimum 4m run of material for you...only a handful of mills will do such a small run. Edgar has a 15m minimum order; most other mills have a similar minimum amount. FYI, tartans such as the Fitzsimmons are special weave (i.e. not stock) only.

I believe most Scottish mills have access to the STA's ITI database (which contains thousands of tartans, and their thread counts, etc). Most of what the STA has on record can be woven (unless its restricted by use, mill, etc).

All you need to do is contact (email will usually work) whatever mill you're looking to use to find out if they'll send you samples of what you need woven. Most mill web sites state cost per meter as well. The mills will work with you to get you what you want, I think.