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View Poll Results: Argyle or Prince Charlie? What is our first pattern type for the project?
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22nd October 07, 06:57 PM
#1
To reiterate, the goal of the project is to learn and publish here how to create a custom pattern based on the measurements of a person, then create a set of instructions for construction and tailoring that others can use to create their own jackets.
We will not create a pattern in the normal sense that covers a size range and is sold in an envelope. I've got two of the main commercial patterns and they leave much to be desired in how to tailor it to fit the actual person, and in instructions.
The point is to create a jacket that fits correctly on the person for whom it was created. That requires creating the pattern from scratch.
However, once created, the pattern can be used again for other jackets. From what I've read, it looks like the same basic pattern archetype can be modified to create other styles fairly easily.
To organize the workings of this project, I foresee three to four larger topics.
1) Measuring and Standards: We will need to work out what measurements are required, based on the texts, as well as the standards we decide are pertinent. The standards will hopefully come from the issues that people point out in response to the above post.
For example, if a Prince Charlie's tail is to reach the fell line of the kilt, do we need to include the distance to the fell line from the back waist line? What other measurements will help make the pattern useful to other jacket types?
2) Patternmaking: This is where we take the measurements and create the basic pattern for that person. We also adjust the pattern for the person's "disproportions" to the model pattern prototype.
3) Muslin Fitting: The basic pattern is used to create a muslin shell. A fitting is done on the person to make adjustments to the pattern before cutting the expensive cloth. We make the final pattern from the muslin fitting pieces (or use the muslin as the pattern, if we are bold and don't need a more durable pattern for future jackets).
4) Construction: Using the final pattern, the jacket cloth is cut and sewn together. We will discuss and decide on tailoring techniques that work best to give a good fit, within our skills as non-tailors. (I don't expect us to replicate the work of a master tailor, just get a reasonably good fit and finish.)
We'll accumulate a set of tips and other information (suppliers and lists of items needed, such as padding, lining, etc.) that others can use in creating their own jacket. I was surprised that many tailors use precut suit jacket interfaces for basic patterns from which to work. The suppliers even sell kits with the interfaces and other items needed, other than the suiting material.
We may or may not create patterns for other jacket types. I suspect that our main jacket prototype can be used to create multiple variations with some modifications. We may all want to add those tips as we tackle those projects in the future.
When this project is completed, those who participate will likely have learned skills that they can use to make men's clothing and even period costumes for men. I suspect that the same skills are pertinent to women's tailored clothes, as well.
Finally, I want to be clear that I am learning this as we go along, as well. I have a relatively clear picture in my head of how this all works, but it will take some trial and error on my part as well as everyone else's part.
We won't be the blind leading the blind, though. I have accumulated a good set of text books and other resources that I think will make it possible for us to accomplish the goal of the project. But it will take all of our work and contributions to make the final set of instructions and diagrams usable for others to use in the future.
Oh yeah, someone needs to edit the instructions and final product to make it clear and concise. Obviously, that is not in my skillset! :-)
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