Creating new patterns for kilt jackets

[Andrew Breecher]

I think the biggest issue which separates kilt jackets from the usual sport coat is that they are fitted with the use of darts, rather than sack jackets. I find this is what detracts the most from jacket conversions; I think the fitted jacket looks better as it hugs the waist a bit more.

If you're using a muslin base, it would be simple to provide a basic drape, with markings where darts could take it in - a series of "V" markings for instance, or at least a large "V" with the instructions to pull it in here, and pin it until it fits.

Andrew.

[gilmore]

What a wonderful idea for a much-needed solution. I am looking forward to this thread, and hope to be able to contribute what little I can.

[Mark Keeney]

I have used patterns from the "envelope" patterns and have had very good luck with them. Some patterns are better designed than others and that you can tell by reading the instructions. Altering patterns to fit is also described in the pattern or basic sewing books. I have noticed the pattern books have fewer and fewer patterns for jackets. One of my favorite pattern company for jackets has been Burda. The older Burda patterns didn't include seam markings and you had to add them but it made laying out a pattern easier and altering easier.

If you are starting from scratch you might find a jacket that fits well and deconstruct that and use as a pattern.

You also used to be able to buy men's tailored shoulder pads in the fabric shops but they are impossible to find any now.