Thanks, everyone, for your interest and input. I agree, this is a daunting task.

Tailoring is an art, to be sure. I don't pretend that we'll master that art, so it makes it all the more important to make a pattern that fits well to begin with. We'll learn what we can of tailoring to make our resulting jackets fit the best we can make them fit.

1. There are tailor supply stores; I'm collecting links. I'll publish those soon. They have the shoulder pads, tailor hams, etc.

2. Books - I also have several books that might be of interest to the team. You don't need to purchase them if you don't want to, but here they are:

A. Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear, by Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers, $55. This is expensive, but I think it will be invaluable on the shaping and tailoring aspects of the project.

B. The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting (1853), by Edward Minister & Son, $31.95. Again, this isn't cheap. There are pages of this published on costume sites, but this is the only printed version I found of the complete 19th Century text. The online sources don't appear to give the complete instructions. This is where we find the instructions on creating the custom patterns from the measurements, using the author's system.

It also gives the then contemporary variations for military jackets for the various British military branches, including the Highlander regiments. It also gives instructions for an Inverness Cape and most other types of garments worn by men in the 1850's. There are some women's clothing patterns and construction information, as well. This might be worth getting if you are a historic re-enactor.

Commercial Patterns

There are two commercial patterns that I bought, which I will use as a reference and control on the custom pattern we develop. While these patterns really aren't usable for me as a pattern out of the envelope, some may want to start with these and adjust the pattern to fit based on what we work up for our custom patterns.

3. Prince Charlie Jacket - Folkwear Pattern #152, $19.95. Note that this is sized for S-M-L only.

4. Argyle Jacket - Simplicity #5029, $16.95. Sized from XS to XL (32 to 48). You'll have to scroll down to find it, or search for the pattern using the pattern search tool. Obviously, this is meant to be a costume, so it isn't going to make a very satisfactory kilt jacket, but it is a starting point, if you fit the pattern's range.

I also have a PC and Argyle jacket to use as a model to work against. If you have one that sort of fits, you can use it to hold up the pattern pieces (commercial or our custom ones) to see if it looks reasonably similar. Keep in mind that the pattern may be slightly different if you've adjusted it for sloping shoulders, etc. The general size is what you will compare.

There are other books, to which I'll provide links, as we go along.

Patternmaking Supplies

5. Paper. To make the pattern, you'll also need some form of paper on which to draft. I am looking for something now. I know there is pattern paper with grids made, but it may be cost prohibitive. I think butcher paper will work for the drafts, or even blank newspaper stock (available from newspapers for a small fee, usually). Once you've created the final adjustments, you'll probably want to use something acid-free to make the final pattern so it will last longer.

6. Strait edge and French Curve: You'll need these to create the lines on the pattern drafts. I suggest getting clear acrylic ones with measurements, etc. inscribed. You should be able to find these locally in art stores. You want a fairly large French curve since you'll use it to make the neck hole and other curves for the male body. Likewise, you'll want a 18" to 24" straitedge for the same reason. If you can't find one locally, I'll try to find an online source.

My goal is to update this once a week with the progress. For this week, just look around and start collecting supplies for pattern drafting.