Creating new patterns for kilt jackets

[ccga3359]

Voted Argyle as I feel most would have more opportunity to wear one.

[Howard Clark]

I'll second the argyle jacket !

I also have an over abundance of self confidence (as do many others of the rabble present here, I might add). But I found the thought of making a jacket from scratch pretty intimidating. I am at 15 and counting on kilts now, and only the last three have been what I would call "good enough" to wear out in public. The rest serve me well in the shop, where it does not matter what they look like, so long as they provide some warmth and protection from the debris that is the by product of making blades.

If you take the time to make the pattern, and make it available, I might try it. I found that simplicity pattern terribly confusing.

So carry on !

[Mark Keeney]

I would prefer the argyle too. Only with options to make the cuffs and pockets plain for a less formal jacket.

[AtagahiKC]

To clarify, I intend to do a PC after the Argyle, so for the two who voted for the PC, don't worry, we'll get to it next. I think it will go faster as we'll have worked out the patternmaking kinks and construction kinks on the Argyle.

To Mark's point, the changing of elements is important to me, too. We need to do it the right way as the group project so that we have a good model for those who want a traditional one. But you should feel free to eliminate or change what you want, as we go along on your jacket. No one should feel that they have to put this much work into something that isn't what they want.

I suppose that if someone wants to do the PC instead of the Argyle the first time, they can do it. They will just have to translate what is going on here to the PC pattern.

[H.M.R.Regmtl. Highlanders]

Have u no class of course the prince charlei is better than the argyle, thats just assanine.

God Save The Queen

[Red_Raven]

There goes my paycheck..I'll take one each..

This site has several other books that have instructions on creating patterns for men's clothes from the 1600's to 1907. I can't afford to buy them all, but if you buy one, please feel free to chime in on how your source differs from what I'm using in pattern making, etc.

http://www.lacis.com/catalog/data/b_drafting.html

[AtagahiKC]

Sorry Red Raven Studios.

HMRRH: We've plenty of class. I like the cut of the PC better, too, but it is hard to work into an every day wardrobe. The Argyle is more versatile for most people. The PC only gets worn to formal events. Besides, the Argyle will be a little easier as a first project than the PC. But I definitely look forward to your input as we go along.

[Andrew Breecher]

Have u no class of course the prince charlei is better than the argyle, thats just assanine.

I don't see how a PC is "better" than an Argyle. It may be more formal, true. I've only ever worn a tuxedo twice in my life, including when I've been in wedding parties. I've worn suit jackets or Argyle jackets much more often, sometimes every week - including when I've been in wedding parties. Given the choice between making a jacket to wear once or twice ever or every day, I'd go with the one worn more often. If I ever need a PC I'll rent it, just as I would a tuxedo.

Andrew.

[Mark Keeney]

Not to throw a wrench in the project. But I would really like to see a doublet pattern. I have not been able to find one anywhere.

[The Wizard of BC]

If I may interject a couple of helpful ideas.

I attempted to make our Kilt-Cut Sport Coat from the Simplicity pattern and it was a disaster. Then I met the lady who currently makes our jackets. Just watching her has been a lesson in the art.
See if you have a really good tailor in your area. Preferably one who does work on military uniforms. Offer to pay him to sit and watch. Most real craftsmen don't mind teaching and passing on the skills. Just make sure you let him know that there is no way you will become his competition.

Then, find a good male tailors form.

Practice and learn to baste and hand stitch really well. Learn how to use a thimble correctly. The ring style. Practice till you can make 100 stitches that are exactly uniform in stitch length, spacing and invisible.

The structure of a jacket does not come from the fabric but from the interfacing. learn how to use sew-in interfacing.

Oh yea, as to what style of jacket you make. It doesn't matter. learn to make a good quality, well fitting jacket first. Then you can do anything.

The old cutters guide referenced above is a wonderful resource. Especially the chapter of fitting men of unusual body types. It talks specifically about how to adjust a two dimensional piece of paper till it will fit a three dimensional shape.

Buy an entire bolt of inexpensive Muslin. This is what you use instead of paper for your patterns. Draw on it with blue chalk. Cut and sew it together and then mark it with red chalk for the adjustments. Re-cut and re-sew till it fits. Then disassemble it and use that as your pattern to lay-out your real fabric.

Plan on making three or four muslin jackets and throwing them away. The more you make the better your finished work will look.

Never, never, buy your jacket fabric from your local fabric store.

The lining is in most cases more important to the drape of the jacket than the outside fabric. The lining is there to allow the outside structure to move and drape properly. Get good Bemburg lining fabrics. It's the lining that fits your body and the interfacing that gives the shape. The outside fabric floats on those two. Never skimp on the lining.

Buy four or five good hams. Of different shapes and sizes. Buy a clapper. Then get the best industrial iron you can find. The one with the separate tank for the water. Having these in my shop has made all the difference in the world in my shop. On Kilts and jackets. The sole plate does not get as hot as in a normal household iron because it is not needed to produce the steam. It is the heat from the steam and the pressure from your arm that does the work, not the stroking from the iron itself.

Good luck guys. I know you can do it. If you have specific questions I'll pass them on to my jacket lady and hopefully she will be able to help.