Pleater! Questions about your kinguisse kilts

[Alan H]

I "get" the basic idea of what a kinguisse style kilt is but I have two questions. I put them out here so that everybody could benefit form your answers.

1. Do you put a box pleat in the center of the back, or just butt the edges of the back-facing pleats from each side, up next to each other?

2. Do you somehow work in a reverse pleat over on the right side, like a traditional knife pleated "one way pleats" kilt? If so, how do you do it?

Thanks!

[The Wizard of BC]

Alan,

The Traditional Kingussie has a box pleat in the center back that is outside and all the pleats point forward. You treat the reverse pleat at each apron edge just as you would on the right side of a knife pleated kilt.

The Reverse Kingussie (aka UK) is just the same as a regular kingussie but inside out. the box pleat at the center back in inside and all the pleats point backwards. You treat the apron edges just as you would the deep Pleat of a knife pleated kilt on the left side.

It is a normal knife pleated kilt from one apron to the center back with a reversed or mirror image on the other side. The only difference is on one you have two deep pleats and on the other two reverse pleats.

[Pleater]

My personal take on this is to have a double sized pleat on each side of the centre back to make an inverted box pleat.I would usually measure out the visible pleats from the centre back. The outer folds of the centre back pleats touch - I usually fold the fabric right sides together and sew vertically for about an inch so as to ensure the edges meet. I form the pleat and sew the outer folds from the right side through the three layers, again for about an inch. This is then the point from which all else is measured.

I work out from the centre back measuring pinning and checking the small pleats, comparing the two sides to ensure symmetry, and then I move to the aprons, check the measurements, put in the 2 inch deep folds to shape the edge against the pleat panel, and the rest of the fabric then makes under apron pleats, which should be identical in size if I have worked things out correctly.

I do not shape the right edge of the apron. If I did, I would probably move the centre back seam to the left inner fold of the centre back inverted box pleat so as to put more fabric into the left half of the kilt. (Left and right etc. are as the kilt is when worn)

The two halves of the kilt are then perfect mirror images.

I usually put on a waist band which just binds the raw edge of the fabric, and then add belt loops, one centre back, one at the end of the pleat panel each side, and one on the end of the apron. I do not use buckles, just a sturdy belt which is threaded through the end of apron loop, the waist band is drawn tight, pleats smoothed and the belt tightened. I place the loops where the pleats are straight to make attaching them to the pleats easier.

If the pattern is symetrical I turn one side of the fabric round swapping the left and right sdges, so the pleats have the same part of the pattern on the same part of the pleat - the multiple pleat kilt I am working on is black and grey on the reveals, but the pleats flash alternatly red and white. The seam at the centre back joins red to red, so as to make the pleats perfect mirror images, with the same part of the pattern on the same part of the pleat.

I do not sew down the pleats, as I find that the way they lay is pretty stable - and I usually wear a tunic or liner so if the pleats do fly it is not really a problem - though the lace edgings does seem to set a few hearts a flutter around here. Maybe they don't get out much.

[Alan H]

Alan,

The Traditional Kingussie has a box pleat in the center back that is outside and all the pleats point forward. You treat the reverse pleat at each apron edge just as you would on the right side of a knife pleated kilt.

OK, that makes sense.

The Reverse Kingussie (aka UK) is just the same as a regular kingussie but inside out. the box pleat at the center back in inside and all the pleats point backwards.

Ooops..I was thinking of a Reverse Kinguisse when I was envisioning my project!

You treat the apron edges just as you would the deep Pleat of a knife pleated kilt on the left side.

That's what I was looking for!

It is a normal knife pleated kilt from one apron to the center back with a reversed or mirror image on the other side. The only difference is on one you have two deep pleats and on the other two reverse pleats.

[Alan H]

My personal take on this is to have a double sized pleat on each side of the centre back to make an inverted box pleat.I would usually measure out the visible pleats from the centre back.

Got it!

The outer folds of the centre back pleats touch - I usually fold the fabric right sides together and sew vertically for about an inch so as to ensure the edges meet.

OK, makes sense.

I form the pleat and sew the outer folds from the right side through the three layers, again for about an inch. This is then the point from which all else is measured.

I work out from the centre back measuring pinning and checking the small pleats,

OK, this will make me "think different".. I can do that.

comparing the two sides to ensure symmetry, and then I move to the aprons, check the measurements, put in the 2 inch deep folds to shape the edge against the pleat panel, and the rest of the fabric then makes under apron pleats, which should be identical in size if I have worked things out correctly.

I do not shape the right edge of the apron. If I did, I would probably move the centre back seam to the left inner fold of the centre back inverted box pleat so as to put more fabric into the left half of the kilt. (Left and right etc. are as the kilt is when worn)

The two halves of the kilt are then perfect mirror images.

I usually put on a waist band which just binds the raw edge of the fabric, and then add belt loops, one centre back, one at the end of the pleat panel each side, and one on the end of the apron. I do not use buckles, just a sturdy belt which is threaded through the end of apron loop, the waist band is drawn tight, pleats smoothed and the belt tightened. I place the loops where the pleats are straight to make attaching them to the pleats easier.

I'm likely to put in "regular" belt loops, but that's a little detail.

If the pattern is symetrical I turn one side of the fabric round swapping the left and right sdges, so the pleats have the same part of the pattern on the same part of the pleat

OK, I'm going to have to think on this one...you turn the fabric around so that the same part of the sett is revealed....Hmmm

- the multiple pleat kilt I am working on is black and grey on the reveals, but the pleats flash alternatly red and white. The seam at the centre back joins red to red, so as to make the pleats perfect mirror images, with the same part of the pattern on the same part of the pleat.

I do not sew down the pleats, as I find that the way they lay is pretty stable - and I usually wear a tunic or liner so if the pleats do fly it is not really a problem - though the lace edgings does seem to set a few hearts a flutter around here. Maybe they don't get out much.