XKilt Pleat Taper for the big guys

[Barb T]

Doesn't matterthe pleats have no taper from the bottom of the fell to the top of the fell.

[Pleater]

You might possibly want to taper the pleats into the small of the back - because the two measurements are not two circles vertically one over the other - there could be a 'bay window' effect at the front, from which the pleats would fall straight down from the waist, but there still be some inward curve to consider to the rear. Without it the waistband would crease up under the belt, or there would be a gap if the kilt was just buckled.

Try the effect with a towel and a few safety pins to see how something straight up and down would fit around you.

If, after you pin the towel at your waist kilt fashion, you can put your hand down a gap at the centre back, or pinch loose fabric at the sides then you will need to add shape to get a good fit.

[Barb T]

You might possibly want to taper the pleats into the small of the back - because the two measurements are not two circles vertically one over the other - there could be a 'bay window' effect at the front, from which the pleats would fall straight down from the waist, but there still be some inward curve to consider to the rear. Without it the waistband would crease up under the belt, or there would be a gap if the kilt was just buckled.

The only way for this to work would be to make the hip measurement actually bigger than the waist. If the waist and hip are 44, for example, you can't split the waist measurement 23/21 and leave the hip at 22/22. That would give a reverse taper in the apron. You _could_ make the waist 23/21 and the hips 23/22, which would give you some taper toward the waist in the back but a straight apron edge in the front, but you'd have to be happy with an extra inch in across the apron.

Barb