replacing canvas backing

[way2fractious]

3. The stitching of the pleats at the fell has many stitches that are between 1/4" and 1/2" long. On the outside, you'd never see it, but inside it just seems a little sloppy.

After the excess material is cut out of the pleats inside, steeking (probably Gaelic for "closing") - or stitches - gather up all but the outside layer of tartan and provide a stable platform for the pleats below. These stitches are not like the tiny pleat stitches on the outside, and they tend to be longer as they pick up many layers of fabric. This is one of the things the liner is intended to cover.

From your description of the steeking in your kilt, it appears normal. It won't hurt to re-steek, but it may not be necessary.

w2f

[The Wizard of BC]

I will second the recomendation on ordering a copy of Barb's book "The Art of Kiltmaking". It will answer all your questions about what the parts of your kilt are, what they are called, and why they are there.

One comment, The Hair canvas that is inside the kilt is not just a band stuck in there to thicken the kilt it is actually the interfacing that keeps the entire kilt hanging correctly and not warping out of shape.

If you imagine this...take a piece of hair canvas and fasten straps and buckles to it. Then strap the canvas around yourself nice and snug and into the small of your back. This interfacing is what you are actually wearing. The Tartan fabric can then float over the canvas without being distorted or having stress placed on the stitching.

If you have a kilt that the pleats are cut away to thin the kilt at the small of the back but the interfacing is missing then to put it back in is not a small job. Not impossible but you need to remove the liner completly. Remove the straps and buckles. Then place the hair canvas into the kilt and sew he straps and buckles through the Tartan and onto the interfacing. Then you replace the liner to cover everything up and look nice and neat.

Also....The Steeking is a line of stitches done on the inside to hold and support the inside of the pleats where they have been cut. This holds the pleats in position and parallel so they won't curl. (Way2fractious is correct. Steeking = Gaelic for "To Stitch".)

good luck. and remember to post pics of your work when your done.

[fluter]

I will second the recomendation on ordering a copy of Barb's book "The Art of Kiltmaking".

It's available here: celticdragonpress.com in case you haven't yet found that link.

good luck. and remember to post pics of your work when your done.

Before and after pix would be very interesting and potentially useful to anyone with a similar project. Best wishes to you and your kilt!