Anyone buy a premier wool US Army kilt from Rocky yet?

[Livingston]

Ok, I've got some guesses. But, what's a "step up" pleat, Rocky?

Probably where the lines in the tartan don't end up matching.

[RockyR]

Probably where the lines in the tartan don't end up matching.

yes... "step up" means that the horizontal lines of the tartan don't match up on a poorly sewn kilt. It gives a "stairs" effect across the back in the sewn down area of the fell. When we make our Premier kilts, we pin down the pleats and sew the material inside out. When we open the material up, if the horizontal tartan lines are off by more than 1 thread, the pleat must be torn out and re-done. That's the "higher standard" I was referring to. Sorry to use Jargon to confuse you...

ALSO... please note that not all of my jargon is "industry standard"... I make up my own terminology on occasion (like kilts with the "Lawn Chair Effect"), so I apologize if I confuse people on occasion.