what am I seeing here?

[Barb T]

One of the really nice things about getting a custom weave from DC Dalgliesh is that they still use the old clean (not turned) selvedge. It always looks really perfect.

The interesting thing about Lochcarron fabric is that, when I first bought Lochcarron fabric years ago and they were still doing a clean selvedge, the right side of the fabric was the side that had the twill line running diagonally and down to the left looking across the fabric. This is what I was taught to use as the right side of the fabric. Now, as Matt shows in his photo, Lochcarron fabric is woven with the right side as the side that has the twill line diagonally down to the right. Frustrating.

Whether the turned selvedge shows very much in a particular piece of tartan is at least partly a function of where the selvedge is placed with respect to the tartan. One of the things that no one liked about the early runs of XMarks tartan was the fact that the blue weft threads turned at the edge of the tartan made the edge white stripe look as if it had bled (the infamous "bleeding selvedge"). In the 16 oz run, F&K put a different stripe at the edge of the tartan, and the turned selvedge (where the threads are doubled) is much less obvious.

[Stewart Rendall]

It is important that the kiltmaker use the good face of the cloth for the outside of the kilt. I would guess that the picture in the first post is the "bad" side of the fabric, so hopefully this was on the inside of the kilt.
M

the right side of the fabric was the side that had the twill line running diagonally and down to the left looking across the fabric. This is what I was taught to use as the right side of the fabric.

Yes, I was taught this too. The twill should run from the right hip to the left knee when looking down at the kilt. Adhering to this means there is only one side the kiltmaker can use and no 'good' or 'bad' side.

Do you still work that way with the lochcarron cloth Barb, or do you change the direction of the twill when the tucked threads are visible on the other side?

[Barb T]

Yes, I was taught this too. The twill should run from the right hip to the left knee when looking down at the kilt. Adhering to this means there is only one side the kiltmaker can use and no 'good' or 'bad' side.

Do you still work that way with the lochcarron cloth Barb, or do you change the direction of the twill when the tucked threads are visible on the other side?

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one having this problem with Lochcarron tartan!! I try very hard to use the side with the left diagonal. I look pretty carefully at the ends of both halves of the tartan and try to pick the one that looks the best for the apron. The bigger problem is the little thread joins that show up on what they think is the back but what I think is the front. I've had to poke them through to the other side to hide them, on occasion.

What about you?

[Stewart Rendall]

It's never really been bad enough for me to consider flipping the cloth in the other direction. If I encountered cloth where the tucked threads were noticeably more apparent on one side then I'd probably have to think about it.
It would feel odd making it with the twill going the other way though. It's a tricky one.

[Barb T]

It's never really been bad enough for me to consider flipping the cloth in the other direction. If I encountered cloth where the tucked threads were noticeably more apparent on one side then I'd probably have to think about it.
It would feel odd making it with the twill going the other way though. It's a tricky one.

I, too, would feel odd making it with the twill running the wrong way, and I haven't yet encountered a piece that was bad enough on the "right" side that I would consider reversing it. Hopefully I won't in the future!!

[Kilted in Maine]

Thanks for the clarification:

I had noticed both the "Turned Selvedge" and "tucked-in hem" on a recent purchase and had assumed they were either mistakes or defects.

I soon realized they were only visible on very very close inspection and paid them no mind.

Now I am glad to hear that the former is only part of the now standard weaving process and the later, as Barb says, "means that your kiltmaker knows what he/she is doing!"

Now, if the wife happens to notice and second guess this purchase, I can explain these to her.

[DWFII]

I originally started this thread because, with no prior experience with kilts, I rented one for a wedding. I was astonished to see the selvage threads and thought that it was poor cloth or a botched attempt to hem the kilt. An attempt to get clarification from the renting business was met with equal perplexity.

At this point in time, I am equally astonished at how many far less ignorant folks than myself are also unfamiliar with this aspect of kilts. Some, like myself, even thinking there is something wrong with the material or the construction.

I am glad that this discussion has precipitated such generous and well informed advice and information. It is helpful to both the end user as well as those who sell or rent kilts and who might reasonably be expected to recognize not only the problem but the equally reasonable concern of the customer.

I wish this discussion had been available when I was first confronted with the issue. Better late than never, however.