One of the really nice things about getting a custom weave from DC Dalgliesh is that they still use the old clean (not turned) selvedge. It always looks really perfect.

The interesting thing about Lochcarron fabric is that, when I first bought Lochcarron fabric years ago and they were still doing a clean selvedge, the right side of the fabric was the side that had the twill line running diagonally and down to the left looking across the fabric. This is what I was taught to use as the right side of the fabric. Now, as Matt shows in his photo, Lochcarron fabric is woven with the right side as the side that has the twill line diagonally down to the right. Frustrating.

Whether the turned selvedge shows very much in a particular piece of tartan is at least partly a function of where the selvedge is placed with respect to the tartan. One of the things that no one liked about the early runs of XMarks tartan was the fact that the blue weft threads turned at the edge of the tartan made the edge white stripe look as if it had bled (the infamous "bleeding selvedge"). In the 16 oz run, F&K put a different stripe at the edge of the tartan, and the turned selvedge (where the threads are doubled) is much less obvious.