New box pleat Gordon by Barb T. :)

[Rex_Tremende]

I asked Barb to make this one a little higher rise (2-1/2") and a little longer length than my other kilts. I like it a great deal with the slightly longer rise.

I also have worked it out with Barb that a 2-1/2" rise is a better fit for my body. It's one of the benefits of working with an expert kiltmaker for a custom kilt: you get that little extra something that makes the kilt precisely yours.

Your box pleated kilt looks great.

Regards,
Rex.

[SteveB]

Congratulations on the fine kilt. It looks great and looks great on you.

[svc40bt]

Yet another work of art from Barb. I guess the sight of such a fine kilt will help excuse X Marks own bladesmith for posting pics without a sgian. Congratulations.

Just looking at the closeup of the pleats. The precision of Barb's pleats truly is amazing. Not only does the yellow line across the fell show not a ripple but it looks as though the twill lines continue from one pleat to the next.

[Kiltman]

I also have worked it out with Barb that a 2-1/2" rise is a better fit for my body. It's one of the benefits of working with an expert kiltmaker for a custom kilt: you get that little extra something that makes the kilt precisely yours.

Regards,
Rex.

So, Barb, how does one make such a determination as to the best rise?

[Rex_Tremende]

So, Barb, how does one make such a determination as to the best rise?

Well, Barb can answer as the kiltmaker, but this request was made by me after having one made by her already to determine what worked best and what needed changing. If one is thinking about buying only one custom-made kilt ever, it might behoove one to discuss more than three measurements, if the kiltmaker uses them, or if possible, pay a visit to him or her in person for the perfect fit.

At any rate here's how it went with me, in an email exchange that took place over three days:

I'm going to start your kilt in the next week or so. Can you send me new waist and hips measurements? For length, do you want me to use what I used before? If not, tell me how much longer or shorter you want your kilt.

Can you tell me what length we used last time? What I discovered was that my tape measure was stretched. I could probably match the old measurement on the original tailor’s tape measure to a correct measurement on a workshop version and have the correct length. Meanwhile, I will go take the other measures – and today’s a good day, too, since I ate too much at lunch.

We used 19 3/4" plus a 2" rise. So, measure from the center of the buckle to the bottom and give me that # of inches, or just tell me how much too short the MacGillivray kilt is.

So, here are the new, more accurate measurements (and maybe with a couple of extra pounds, oh well).

Waist at navel 42 1/2
Hips 47 1/4
20 1/4 + 2 (19 3/4 on my old tape measure was actually 20 1/8 on the toolbox version)

I wouldn’t mind having just a smidge of extra on the top, like maybe a quarter inch (for a total of 2.25 above center of belt) with a teeny bit more flare at the top. I always feel like my belt is slipping up too high and there’s not enough kilt peeking out above it. I wouldn’t say I necessarily have an hourglass figure, I’m a little chubby, but I’m not [exactly sporting a big belly, either]. My torso is bigger than my waist and my middle is plush. I feel these little adjustments would make the kilt feel more securely seated on my waist and hips. You are the expert, of course, so if you’d like to discuss, let me know […].

Are you sure you want as much as a 1/2" more in the length? I'm happy to do it, but just make sure you won't think it's too long.
I'll put a good amount of flare in the top, and I'll add 1/4" to the rise, if you'd like.

Well remember that the measurements I gave you last time were faulty. You challenged me because you thought it was too short, and you were right. Now I understand why. I love my MacGillivray, and I can make it work just fine, but we could definitely improve on it. How about let us split the difference? If you add a quarter inch above the belt center, then add only a quarter inch to the bottom. If this doesn't work the third kilt will be perfect.

I think you'll like the solution you propose!

So, if you follow the math, it ended up as a total length of 22.25", which was a drop of 20" with a rise of 2.25" (adding a quarter inch to both rise and drop from the original) and extra flair at waistband.

Part of what happens when speaking with an experienced expert like Barb is that she has a feel for what is right proportionally. On my first kilt with her, she challenged my measurements - without having ever met me - three times before we settled on a length. In the end, it turns out that her instincts were correct, and it was my tape measure that I later found out was faulty.

The moral of the story here is that you need to discuss things - your body and the fit you prefer - with your kiltmaker if you want the best possible outcome.

Regards,
Rex.

[Barb T]

So, Barb, how does one make such a determination as to the best rise?

Kilts were originally made with a 3" or even a 4" rise. You can see this higher rise in the truly wonderful pic that Rex T. posted at

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/w...291/index.html

Matt, I'm sure, knows much more about this, but I've been told in part it's to keep the back/kidney area warm and in part to keep a gap from developing when worn with the short jackets of the time (even pants had a high rise back then - think David Bowie in Labyrinth).

Most kiltmakers now use a 2" rise. But there's no reason, either practical or traditional, for not having a higher rise. The truly critical thing is building in enough flare. If the kilt just goes straight up from the buckle line, it will cut into your rib cage.The higher the rise, the more flare you need. I added flare to Howard's kilt. And you can see in the first pic that he posted that the top band looks a bit wavy - that's because the top edge is actually bigger than the kilt is at the waist. It was a bit of an experiment, and I haven't heard back from him about whether it's the right amount of flare or not.