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2nd April 09, 11:35 PM
#21
 Originally Posted by RockyR
What about the following ones you missed:
1. Customs Duties (if you're a US or Canadian maker who orders material from the UK) which generally don't get charged to the customer
Same applies to most textiles. All of the other enumerated costs too are standard to pretty much any retailer.
The truth of the matter "Why do kilts cost what they do" is that the price is what the market can accept and what sellers can make a profit from. The price of the cloth is what is the market can accept and those mills that could not rationalize and adapt their production to meet the demands of the market have since shut their doors. Today's kilts and jackets are not made to the same standards of previous generations but too are more rational in their use of labour. Highland jackets are more or less nearly all made using automation and even the "bespoke" jackets from the best tailors in Scotland and most of the Saville Road use short-cuts, machines and other means that would have been considered unacceptable by premiere master tailors of previous generations. What sells today on the Road is fine cloth and not invisible but expensive workmanship. People today are sold on silly little comparatively low labour features such as bright and quirky coloured linings (the rage among City bankers), buttons with holes on the cuff--- a , in general, silly feature that most master tailors would not have bothered with--- and a number of idiosyncracies that are demanded as visible traits to distinguish the one jacket against another.
Things are, on the whole, cheaper today because they must be cheaper because the market is not willing to pay more. This applies not just to textiles but to pretty much the entire consumer market. Mix now willingness to pay with ability to pay (or invest) and one sees the cause of the collapse of the Scottish textiles industry.
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3rd April 09, 05:20 AM
#22
 Originally Posted by Nanook
Same applies to most textiles. All of the other enumerated costs too are standard to pretty much any retailer.
Agreed... I was pointing out that Kiltmakers have not just the cost of making the kilt, but other 'small business' costs as well.
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3rd April 09, 06:44 AM
#23
Alan H, thanks for the review. I for one appreciate your examples of why kilts are not cheap--unless you want a cheap kilt. And I don't want a cheap kilt because cheap kilts look . . . you know!
It's tempting opt for the lesser items--and sometimes we do that--but a kilt is like a pair of glasses. When you buy new glasses, there are many frames to choose from. Some are cheap and look it, and others are expensive. And wouldn't you know it! the ones that look best are not the cheap ones. However, a pair of glasses is so important to one's overall look--and you only buy one or two--that you dare not just get the cheap pair.
Same with a kilt. Unless you're only using it for swamping out the septic tank or highland sports events, you really don't want to look like a characature of a kilted gentleman--you want to look like a well turned out kilted gentleman. At least I do.
And a person who can turn out a well--tailored kilt is a true craftsman. And it takes lots of time to make a kilt. And the materials are not cheap. So, there you are.
I have just bought some very nice tartan wool, and I will soon--after saving my pennies for a couple more months--pay an expert kiltmaker to craft a fine kilt for me. It's worth the wait and worth the cost.
Thanks again, Alan.
Jim Killman
Writer, Philosopher, Teacher of English and Math, Soldier of Fortune, Bon Vivant, Heart Transplant Recipient, Knight of St. Andrew (among other knighthoods)
Freedom is not free, but the US Marine Corps will pay most of your share.
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3rd April 09, 06:57 AM
#24
Guys,
I received a well made kilt from Jerry at SWK. It us a $70 standard saffron. It is very well made. I did notice it was made in Pakistan, that has to account for the $70 price tag considering the above arguments.
We as a nation, complain about companies shipping jobs overseas, however, many people march into Walmart to scoop up those bargains including yours truly. Can't help wondering if our current financial mess is related to this phenom!
-john
____________________________________
You see, ya can't please everyone, so ya got to please yourself (Rick Nelson "Garden Party")
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3rd April 09, 07:21 AM
#25
It is ironic that Scots have a reputation for frugality, and good kilts are so costly.
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3rd April 09, 07:32 AM
#26
What this boils down to is I really enjoy doing this. I would make more money If I stuck out with my theatre career. This at the moment is more rewarding. I'm just pissed because there is one hand that keeps digging into my pocket for every loose dime and quarter it can get it's hands on.(banks and their various charges) I have to find my own solution for this.
Eveyday there is magic, I take a hunk of fabric and some twenty hours later it's a kilt with attitude. That kilt makes someone happy, feel good, and I have gained a new friend.
Customers come back and visit, chat....laugh.... it's all good!
Now I need to develop a lock on those pockets to keep the bankers filthy hands out!!
Cheers
Robert
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3rd April 09, 07:33 AM
#27
 Originally Posted by Nanook
Same applies to most textiles. All of the other enumerated costs too are standard to pretty much any retailer.
The truth of the matter "Why do kilts cost what they do" is that the price is what the market can accept and what sellers can make a profit from. The price of the cloth is what is the market can accept and those mills that could not rationalize and adapt their production to meet the demands of the market have since shut their doors. Today's kilts and jackets are not made to the same standards of previous generations but too are more rational in their use of labour. Highland jackets are more or less nearly all made using automation and even the "bespoke" jackets from the best tailors in Scotland and most of the Saville Road use short-cuts, machines and other means that would have been considered unacceptable by premiere master tailors of previous generations. What sells today on the Road is fine cloth and not invisible but expensive workmanship. People today are sold on silly little comparatively low labour features such as bright and quirky coloured linings (the rage among City bankers), buttons with holes on the cuff--- a , in general, silly feature that most master tailors would not have bothered with--- and a number of idiosyncracies that are demanded as visible traits to distinguish the one jacket against another.
Things are, on the whole, cheaper today because they must be cheaper because the market is not willing to pay more. This applies not just to textiles but to pretty much the entire consumer market. Mix now willingness to pay with ability to pay (or invest) and one sees the cause of the collapse of the Scottish textiles industry.
While jackets are certainly made in this fashion, I don't think it is fair to say that kilts today are not made to the standards of past generations. True, there are many inexpensive options available now, but many kilt makers still make kilts as they were made 100 years ago.
[B][COLOR="DarkGreen"]John Hart[/COLOR]
Owner/Kiltmaker - Keltoi
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3rd April 09, 09:32 PM
#28
 Originally Posted by Canuck
...Now I need to develop a lock on those pockets to keep the bankers filthy hands out!!
Cheers
Robert
Just remember the bankers are providing a service as well. Notice that most kiltmakers prices are pretty comparable, and most bank fees are pretty comparable. They aren't gouging you anymore than you are gouging your clients (and I don't think you are gouging anyone)...it just feels that way. 
The real "filthy" hands are the tax hands, but I will refrain from that soapbox. 
Speaking of businesses and what money they make, it is one of the reasons so many shops seldom are highly specific. While Highland shops are rather specific in their fair, they still run the gamut from head to toe of apparel. When I worked in the grocery biz, I discovered that your produce and meats were running on such razor thin margins that any discount made them a loss. However, meat and produce is what bring the customers. The margins on many other products are much higher, so overall, a profit is made.
I imagine it is something like this for our kiltmaker friends. The kilt gets people in the door, but it is the other fair that help keep the lights on.
May the grace of the Lord Jesus Christ, and the love of God, and the fellowship of the Holy Spirit be with you all.
2 Corinthians 13:14
David E. Gregory
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4th April 09, 07:19 AM
#29
 Originally Posted by Nanook
Today's kilts and jackets are not made to the same standards of previous generations but too are more rational in their use of labour.
I challenge you to sit with me for the time it takes me to make a kilt and still arrive at this conclusion.
And Alan's final kilt costs were predicated on a kiltmaker getting a 50% wholesale discount on $60/yard tartan. I just received the Lochcarron USA wholesale price list for 2009, and prices have actually gone down this year because the dollar is doing better against the British Pound. Despite that, the _wholesale price_ that I will pay this year per yard of double width 16 oz Lochcarron tartan ranges from $43-$55 depending upon the rarity of the tartan. And that does not include shipping.
So, for a _common_ tartan, my wholesale cost this year for enough tartan for an 8 yard kilt will be more like $190 (not $120), if you include what I pay Lochcarron to send the tartan to me. And most tartans that I make kilts from are actually the $50-55/yard wholesale tartans (the "select" and "rare select' ranges). My wholesale price for the rare select tartans for an 8 yard kilt this year will be on the order of $240-250 wholesale, including shipping.
And don't forget that tartan and labor isn't the whole picture. I have to buy buckles and straps, canvas and lining, basting thread, carpet thread, etc. It doesn't sound like much, but it does add up.
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4th April 09, 07:09 PM
#30
 Originally Posted by Colonel MacNeal
It is ironic that Scots have a reputation for frugality, and good kilts are so costly.
Remember that "frugality" does not mean "cheap." It simply means spending your money wisely, which in many cases actually means paying more for a higher quality item that will last longer (and therefore be less expensive in the long run) than a cheaper, lower quality alternative.
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