I am reading the instructions for making an X-Kilt at http://www.stanford.edu/~ahebert/X_Kilt_adobe.pdf In PDF format at the bottom of page 21 he mentions the pleat. I gather that I am taking the side of the overapron that touches the pleats and aligning it from there and sewing that crease on the opposite side.

My confusion comes on page 25 when he talks about tacking down the outer apron and ironing down that large reverse pleat.