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9th September 09, 08:37 AM
#28
I don't mean to be contentious, and I hope this will not be mistaken, but in reading this thread I thought of two very different kilts that I have owned. The first was a Stillwater heavyweight in weathered Lamont tartan. This was (I have since sold it) an eight yard tartan kilt pleated to the sett. I hasten to point out that it was also machine-sewn in Pakistan.
The second kilt is (I still have it!) a Matt Newsome box pleated tweed kilt. It was made from four yards of Harris tweed, and hand sewn.
Both, in my view, are kilts.
Common perception, certainly here in America, and doubtless also in Scotland, would be that the SWK weathered Lamont was the "real kilt." I.e., it conforms to the popular understanding of "eight yards, tartan, knife pleated."
However, by any "traditionalist" measure the Newsome box pleat is far more a "real kilt." The wool is from the Isle of Harris. I believe the Harris Tweed Authority defines Harris tweed as "cloth that has been handwoven by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in their homes, using pure virgin wool that has been dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides." My understanding and belief after reasonable inquiry is that Matt Newsome sews all his kilts by hand.
I only offer this comparison to point out the cognitive dissonance that may go hand in hand with any attempt to place absolute definitions on what a thing is.
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