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16th October 09, 02:00 AM
#1
Ignoring the measurements for a moment, consider your shape.
The pleats need to follow what contours you do have, so that they fall straight down from whatever curve you do have, and above that the fell funnels down to your waist rather than folding in on itself. That would make the kilt larger than your actual measurement at the hip, because the pleats would cover more than half way around you to accommodate your shape rather than your size.
If you have a slight bay window in front you want to have the aprons fall from the widest point and hang straight down curving very slightly outwards. That might mean that there is a significant amount of fresh air between you and the kilt. That is not a bad thing.
I think that you are considering wearing the kilt at below your natural waistline. I'd advise against it until you see the effect. Particularly with a black fabric, making the kilt shorter vertically can make the proportions look odd.
The effect is not so great where a person is slender, but as a rule emphatic colours should be cut long and flowing or long and close fitting.
If you have a full length mirror, try out the effect of different heights, folding over the fabric to the length you intend to wear the kilt. Use a belt or cord to hold in the top edge.
When you start to make your kilt, consider using your actual waistline measurement and level as a starting point. If you decide that you want the level lower after you have it tacked or pinned together you can always trim off the top edge, before cutting and attaching the waistband. Or you can make the next one to fit lower.
I'd advise following the instructions fairly closely for the first one, so that you end up with something you can put on, criticise and know what to change, rather than have a whole lot of alterations to asses and wonder which one you need to change to get the effect you want.
Anne the Pleater :ootd:
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16th October 09, 06:54 AM
#2
 Originally Posted by Pleater
Ignoring the measurements for a moment, consider your shape.
The pleats need to follow what contours you do have, so that they fall straight down from whatever curve you do have, and above that the fell funnels down to your waist rather than folding in on itself. That would make the kilt larger than your actual measurement at the hip, because the pleats would cover more than half way around you to accommodate your shape rather than your size.
If you have a slight bay window in front you want to have the aprons fall from the widest point and hang straight down curving very slightly outwards. That might mean that there is a significant amount of fresh air between you and the kilt. That is not a bad thing.
I think that you are considering wearing the kilt at below your natural waistline. I'd advise against it until you see the effect. Particularly with a black fabric, making the kilt shorter vertically can make the proportions look odd.
The effect is not so great where a person is slender, but as a rule emphatic colours should be cut long and flowing or long and close fitting.
If you have a full length mirror, try out the effect of different heights, folding over the fabric to the length you intend to wear the kilt. Use a belt or cord to hold in the top edge.
When you start to make your kilt, consider using your actual waistline measurement and level as a starting point. If you decide that you want the level lower after you have it tacked or pinned together you can always trim off the top edge, before cutting and attaching the waistband. Or you can make the next one to fit lower.
I'd advise following the instructions fairly closely for the first one, so that you end up with something you can put on, criticise and know what to change, rather than have a whole lot of alterations to asses and wonder which one you need to change to get the effect you want.
Anne the Pleater :ootd:
So I just need to make my waist measurement bigger, and since it's already bigger than my behind, I'll just have some extra space, but be OK?
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