First time kilt making

[The Wizard of BC]

I think, from the sound of the result, that you made the same mistake in thinking that I did early on about what the canvas is actually for.

The mistake in thinking is that you solidly anchor the canvas and pleats together. that somehow the strength comes from the combination of the two. This is incorrect.
And this will create puckers like what you describe.

The concept is to loosely baste the canvas to the inside of the kilt. This sort of keeps things from bunching up. but the canvas and the pleats should both move independently from each other. The canvas just supports the pleats.

When you wear the kilt you are actually wearing the canvas. The pleats float loosely over the canvas with no stress on the stitching.

When stitching the canvas think basting. the stitches should be big, loose and go just through the inside of the pleats not all the way to the outside.

[jhockin]

I think, from the sound of the result, that you made the same mistake in thinking that I did early on about what the canvas is actually for.

The mistake in thinking is that you solidly anchor the canvas and pleats together. that somehow the strength comes from the combination of the two. This is incorrect.
And this will create puckers like what you describe.

The concept is to loosely baste the canvas to the inside of the kilt. This sort of keeps things from bunching up. but the canvas and the pleats should both move independently from each other. The canvas just supports the pleats.

When you wear the kilt you are actually wearing the canvas. The pleats float loosely over the canvas with no stress on the stitching.

When stitching the canvas think basting. the stitches should be big, loose and go just through the inside of the pleats not all the way to the outside.

OK folks,
I have a further question here, regarding the canvas & stiching it across the pleats:
(1) Barbs book says to baste & then run four rows of tailor stitching across the canvas. It helps to be told that the stitches should be loose, but are the tailor stitches suppose to avoid being done through the darts, of the canvas?
(2)I also got the impression, from Barbs directions, that the tailor stitches are suppose to go through as much of the material, of the pleats, as possible, without going through the right-sdie of the kilt - correct?or not?

(3) and, is any of the basting ( both running stitches & tailor stitches) suppose to be removed, before stitching down the lining?

[Barb T]

The apron and underapron pieces are basted first (but only where the pieces cross single thickness tartan). That basting is eventually removed.

The tailor stitching done on the apron and underapron pieces, plus the tailor stitching in the pleats section, is left in and should be stitched through everything but the very outside fabric of the kilt (and the canvas in the pleats is not basted first). You don't want the stitches to show, but the canvas needs to be anchored to the kilt. The stitches should be snug (not tight or puckery) and should definitely be done in the canvas folds.

Main thing is to have the kilt over your knee while you're doing this so that its nice and extended at the bottom of the fell. You don't want to lay it on a table, or (if the pleats have any taper), it's likely that the kilt will be puckered at the bottom of the fell.