Sheriffmuir Jacket from scratch (a DIY project)

[HeathBar]

The gap between the flaps and how the flaps are constructed will probably differ depending on who made the doublet and when the doublet was made. Your pattern looks to show that there is an underflap cover the gaps of the over flap. But I've seen other photos that look the flaps are flush to one another without any visible gap. I would say though that all the flaps are connected independently to allow free-er(?) movement.

I would advise against pockets. It would tempt you to put something in there and that would cause unsightly buldges.

[Dixiecat]

Nice job on the sewing. Good idea for the mock-up first. Some advice:

-try the mock-up on inside out so that your seams are facing outwards, pin any adjustments to the seams and mark this on your pattern, of course this will switch things from left to right, so I always sew mock-ups matching wrong sides instead of right sides

-when sewing princess seams which is what you have on your back, sew a line of stay-stitching on both pieces just inside the seam line and on the piece straight piece, clip into the seam allowance right up to the stay-stitching. This is done to 'stretch' the straight piece to allow the rounded piece to fit in.
You see the 'puckering' on those rounded pieces in your picture? Not enough stretching on the long straight piece.

-you also have one shoulder lower than the other, you can see the back center line swung over to the back left with a pucker up on your shoulder. You'll need to either build up the lower shoulder with shoulder pads to match your higher shoulder (very common solution) or fit the front and back shoulders separately. It's hard to say as you didn't use any shoulder padding in your fitting which you really should do to see exactly how things will fit you.

Otherwise, awesome job working from a drawing and pictures!

[JSFMACLJR]

I would advise against pockets. It would tempt you to put something in there and that would cause unsightly buldges.

Au contraire... Those pockets in the flaps are very useful, and really don't cause any bulges when smaller items are placed therein.

[HeathBar]

Au contraire... Those pockets in the flaps are very useful, and really don't cause any bulges when smaller items are placed therein.

Touche'

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Thanks for the tips, I'll talk to my sister about the princess seams. (if I can drag her away from a number of bridesmaids dresses she is making...)

I don't believe I have one shoulder lower than the other (though a precise test could be in order) the angle of the picture as well as the fact that fitting adjustments had only been applied to one half of the mockup could result in your hypothesis.

I am also following general instructions found in Classic Tailoring Techniques. (hence the mockup.)

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment so in my fitting and testing of the mockup I noted to extend the shoulder parts of the pattern to accommodate that.

(now to go finish fitting the collar and adjusting the front "lapel"...)

[vorpallemur]

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment so in my fitting and testing of the mockup I noted to extend the shoulder parts of the pattern to accommodate that.

(now to go finish fitting the collar and adjusting the front "lapel"...)

The doublet isn't a terribly tailored garment, but one from a good tailor, made for especially for the wearer, would certainly have padding in the low shoulder. It's also going to have a lot clever iron-work to stretch the bits that need stretching, and shrink the bits that need shrinking.

One of the problems with working from the _practical cutter_ stuff is that you're supposed to know how to do these things, so they don't tell you. And final fitting would be done with the very nearly finished garment, on the owner, if they could manage.

[Dixiecat]

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment

au contraire. I would imagine that it didn't specify padding because it wasn't a book about fitting, but a book about military patterns.

The heavy fabric for your second fitting is a very good idea. Don't forget the padding especially in the shoulders, even if your shoulders are equal. Not all padding is for fitting, shoulder padding in heavy coats is to help support and shape the fabric to help distribute the weight. The heavier the fabric and the longer the coat, the more support it needs on and off the body.

Please don't take any of our advice as criticism. I think you're doing an awesome job.

[Heming]

It's also going to have a lot clever iron-work to stretch the bits that need stretching, and shrink the bits that need shrinking.

One of the problems with working from the _practical cutter_ stuff is that you're supposed to know how to do these things, so they don't tell you.

The side back seams (princess seams) are areas like that. In addition to stay stitching the straight parts, try shrinking the curve on the side piece. Sew two rows of basting (I do this by machine) through one layer only just outside the seam line and another just inside. Tighten the threads on the wrong side to shrink the seam line slightlywithout wrinkling or puckering. Press well to set and then sew up your garment. Makes a big difference.

Shoulder pads would be made from large pieces of thin fleece or heavy felt, layered and shaped, and would go down onto your shoulder blade in the back and down to your chest in the front.

But I'd use modern ones, set slightly into the sleeves. Make sure to get the "male evening coat" version. And I would use some light to medium fusible interfacing in the fronts (unless you have experience with canvas interfacing).

Keep up the good work!