Sheriffmuir Jacket from scratch (a DIY project)

[JSFMACLJR]

I would advise against pockets. It would tempt you to put something in there and that would cause unsightly buldges.

Au contraire... Those pockets in the flaps are very useful, and really don't cause any bulges when smaller items are placed therein.

[HeathBar]

Au contraire... Those pockets in the flaps are very useful, and really don't cause any bulges when smaller items are placed therein.

Touche'

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Thanks for the tips, I'll talk to my sister about the princess seams. (if I can drag her away from a number of bridesmaids dresses she is making...)

I don't believe I have one shoulder lower than the other (though a precise test could be in order) the angle of the picture as well as the fact that fitting adjustments had only been applied to one half of the mockup could result in your hypothesis.

I am also following general instructions found in Classic Tailoring Techniques. (hence the mockup.)

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment so in my fitting and testing of the mockup I noted to extend the shoulder parts of the pattern to accommodate that.

(now to go finish fitting the collar and adjusting the front "lapel"...)

[vorpallemur]

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment so in my fitting and testing of the mockup I noted to extend the shoulder parts of the pattern to accommodate that.

(now to go finish fitting the collar and adjusting the front "lapel"...)

The doublet isn't a terribly tailored garment, but one from a good tailor, made for especially for the wearer, would certainly have padding in the low shoulder. It's also going to have a lot clever iron-work to stretch the bits that need stretching, and shrink the bits that need shrinking.

One of the problems with working from the _practical cutter_ stuff is that you're supposed to know how to do these things, so they don't tell you. And final fitting would be done with the very nearly finished garment, on the owner, if they could manage.

[Dixiecat]

The pattern did not specify pads and I don't think they were used in the original garment

au contraire. I would imagine that it didn't specify padding because it wasn't a book about fitting, but a book about military patterns.

The heavy fabric for your second fitting is a very good idea. Don't forget the padding especially in the shoulders, even if your shoulders are equal. Not all padding is for fitting, shoulder padding in heavy coats is to help support and shape the fabric to help distribute the weight. The heavier the fabric and the longer the coat, the more support it needs on and off the body.

Please don't take any of our advice as criticism. I think you're doing an awesome job.

[Heming]

It's also going to have a lot clever iron-work to stretch the bits that need stretching, and shrink the bits that need shrinking.

One of the problems with working from the _practical cutter_ stuff is that you're supposed to know how to do these things, so they don't tell you.

The side back seams (princess seams) are areas like that. In addition to stay stitching the straight parts, try shrinking the curve on the side piece. Sew two rows of basting (I do this by machine) through one layer only just outside the seam line and another just inside. Tighten the threads on the wrong side to shrink the seam line slightlywithout wrinkling or puckering. Press well to set and then sew up your garment. Makes a big difference.

Shoulder pads would be made from large pieces of thin fleece or heavy felt, layered and shaped, and would go down onto your shoulder blade in the back and down to your chest in the front.

But I'd use modern ones, set slightly into the sleeves. Make sure to get the "male evening coat" version. And I would use some light to medium fusible interfacing in the fronts (unless you have experience with canvas interfacing).

Keep up the good work!