Originally Posted by
slohairt
You would want it reasonably loose. It's a measurement usually taken over worn clothing.
That must be my problem. I alway measure over brand new clothing. 
Another reason that first pleat can flip is if the apron is not properly shaped. The over aprons on Stillwater wool kilts, for example (at least the three I have) are A-shaped on the right side but the crease in the first pleat follows the tartan line on the left side. On my SWK Saffron I actually re-shaped the pleat with an iron and it helpd reduce the pleat flipping. I havea PV kilt in maple leaf tartan from another kiltmaker with the same problem, and it also has a straight left side on the apron, so it's not necessarilyan issue of being too tight as much as aporn construction.
Convener, Georgia Chapter, House of Gordon (Boss H.O.G.)
Where 4 Scotsmen gather there'll usually be a fifth.
7/5 of the world's population have a difficult time with fractions.
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