traditional vs. classic

[HeathBar]

Obviously weapons are out, but what else should be avoided when it comes to the historical representations of Highland attire shown above?

Using the picture in the previous posts, plaids of any size and cross belts. Unless, of course, you are a piper.

[Tobus]

I think we are in danger for falling into the trap that the artist may have intended. I do not believe for one second that the attire worn by the gentlemen in this and other like pictures was normal daywear for Scots, even well to do ones. These pictures should be regarded as nothing else than trying to "sell" the romance of Scotland. We can all dig out our Sunday best,or a Dress uniform and pose for a picture, but we all know that is not and never will be, normal wear.

Thanks. That's kind of what I was thinking... and it's why I asked. Personally, I think it looks a little too 'stiff' for normal everyday attire. But it does look impressive!

So, with CMcG's suggestion of specifics, what items in the portrait do you believe would have been normal everyday attire?

Buckle brogues and ghillie brogues: common traditional daywear items, or only "Sunday best"?

What about the horsehair sporrans? Diced hose?

I know these items seem to have fallen out of common use for daywear in our modern era. But I personally see them as 'classic'. I just don't know how 'traditional' they were in the 1800s, in terms of being worn outside formal/military occasions.

[longhuntr74]

I did not realize Cluny McPherson was wearing a regulation doublet. From the angle of the photo, it looked like another Argyll. Pretty hard to go wrong with a regulation.

Edited for brevity...

But the white jacket? The problem, as Bertie Wooster learned when he came back from Cannes, is that white formal jackets really only work when it is so hot that even the perceived warmth of a black coat seems too much. (Of course, that is not really an issue most of the time- either there is AC or it's so hot that a white coat is still stifling.) Wear white formal wear any other time, though, and you look like you're trying to be Cab Calloway. Or Captain Steubing.

I also thought it was a Argyll jacket...it is indeed a regimental doublet, isn't it? Speaking of Argyll...is it Argyll or Argyle? I've seen it both ways.

Regarding the white jacket, I like the look...but agree that it is very limited in it's uses. In the case of this particular gentleman, the five button vest and tie are inappropriate to the jacket style IMHO and the vest is ill fitting as well, since you can see the shirt under the vest, caused by the man's large stomach. I've got a huge yearning for a US Army White Mess uniform...but I just have no occassion to wear it. Military regulations limit the wear of the white uniform to summers and by latitude (warmer climates). It is a fairly cheap ($400 or less) uniform to purchase, but I wouldn't get my money's worth I fear...and I'd also stand out drastically in a room full of blue coats.

[creagdhubh]

I think we are in danger for falling into the trap that the artist may have intended. I do not believe for one second that the attire worn by the gentlemen in this and other like pictures was normal daywear for Scots, even well to do ones. These pictures should be regarded as nothing else than trying to "sell" the romance of Scotland. We can all dig out our Sunday best,or a Dress uniform and pose for a picture, but we all know that is not and never will be, normal wear.

I think the hat in question is known as a "hummel".

I completely agree with Jock Scot. I have an undergraduate degree in fine art and am an accomplished oil potrait painter and have analyzed Macleay's work for around 7 years. His portraits of the Highlanders are indeed impressive, however, one who is looking at them for inspiration and ideas with regards to the wearing of their own Highland attire should use steady caution. I would agree that there are certain elements from the Highlanders presented that could be pulled out and used in today's wearing of Highland dress-mainly ideas for the fullest of full dress for evening wear. You have to remember, Macleay painted those portraits in the 19th-century, during the reign of HRH Queen Victoria, it was the style back then for Highlanders, with some wealth or stature, or retainers of the Queen herself, to wear all kinds of items such as pistols, broadswords, targes, huge plaids, horsehair sporrans, etc. Some of which you could most certainly adapt and wear today. However, you also have to understand that each specific Highlander was a representation of a Highland clan, which means there is no doubt that the respected Chief of each clan would want his men that sat for the portrait to look their best in all of their finery. The book ('The Highlanders of Scotland'-which is presently hard to fine-Haggerston Press) actuallly has a written portion that describes how much money it took for the models to prepare for their portraits-written in the 19th-century by Amelia MacGregor.

[creagdhubh]

Thanks. That's kind of what I was thinking... and it's why I asked. Personally, I think it looks a little too 'stiff' for normal everyday attire. But it does look impressive!

So, with CMcG's suggestion of specifics, what items in the portrait do you believe would have been normal everyday attire?

Buckle brogues and ghillie brogues: common traditional daywear items, or only "Sunday best"?

What about the horsehair sporrans? Diced hose?

I know these items seem to have fallen out of common use for daywear in our modern era. But I personally see them as 'classic'. I just don't know how 'traditional' they were in the 1800s, in terms of being worn outside formal/military occasions.

I would reserve buckle brogues, tartan hose, and dices hose for evening wear. Ghillie brogues are okay for all occassions, except if they have buckles attached to them, then I would reserve them only for formal dress. Of course if you are a piper, you could wear buckle brogues and tartan or diced hose as part of your uniform during any occassion, which would be correct.

[creagdhubh]

Using the picture in the previous posts, plaids of any size and cross belts. Unless, of course, you are a piper.

One could most certainly wear the 'shoulder' plaid with day wear. All this is, is a pipers plaid, unpleated, folded length wise, then folded in half and folded again, and thrown loosely over the left shoulder. One could also wear it like a piper's plaid, yet with no brooch-just wrapped across the chest, around the back, and the 'tails' thrown over the left shoulder. The plaid looks best with purled fringing-not the typical finging you see with fly plaids.

[Tobus]

I would reserve buckle brogues, tartan hose, and dices hose for evening wear. Ghillie brogues are okay for all occassions, except if they have buckles attached to them, then I would reserve them only for formal dress.

Yes, I understand that this is the fashion today. But is this the way it was done in the 1800s as well?

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I think you will find that in most 19th century photographs of kilted gentlemen in "day wear" shoes are either buttoned or tied with ordinary shoe laces.

[OC Richard]

...no doubt that the respected Chief of each clan would want his men that sat for the portrait to look their best in all of their finery.

This gives the impression that all the men are dressed in elaborate Highland costume. Many are, but many others are in quite plain dress.

Of the 56 kilted figures, 24 are in the "Celtic" jackets so popular at that time, but 21 are in plain "day" jackets.

Absolutely plain grey tweed day jackets, plain Balmorals and Glengarries, plain hose, and ordinary Oxford shoes are not what comes to mind when we speak of these men being dressed in "finery".

[creagdhubh]

I beg to differ, Jamie. I would have to say that tartan doublets are indeed "classic." They have stood the test of time. They are worn by the cognizanti. They are not faddish. They are (generally) bespoke.

Why should we take into consideration what the "mainstream" considers to be proper Highland attire? That surely is dumbing things down to the least common denominator, and what is left is a milquetoast wishing to offend no one and fit into the crowd. That I would not call classic.

As aye,
Sandy

Man do I ever agree! I plan to have a tartan doublet made at some point. Only to be worn as the fullest of full dress for evening wear, naturally.