Highlanders Discuss Highland Attire

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

*****

[MacRobert's Reply]

Sorry that my contribution to this thread is so late - work got in the way. I recognise the observant and insightful descriptions by Jock, Redshank, Phil and others, and I particularly enjoyed CMcG's anthropological analysis. There is little of substance that I can add but here are a few reflections on my own wearing of the kilt and what I have observed in Scotland.

I was about three years old when I got my first kilt. It was in ancient hunting Robertson and I remember the delight of my parents at its swing. A wee balmoral bonnet followed. At about 12 or 13 another kilt in ancient hunting Robertson was made for me and I inherited an ancient dress (red) Robertson kilt from a cousin. The latter, worn for weddings and other posh occasions in the evening with a wee white hair sporran, a black velvet Montrose doublet and lace jabot and cuffs, was very warm (even before the days of central heating). The hunting (green) Robertson with tweed Argyle jacket and waistcoat (antler buttons and epaulettes but a single button only on the cuffs) was worn for smart rather than posh events such as church on Sunday or with a Scout shirt as part of the uniform. This was worn with a plain brown leather sporran but I don't remember any of us boys having a kilt belt, other than the belt worn with Scout uniform. Shoes were the same black or brown leather ones we wore with other formal clothes.

Kilts and jackets never get too small (Why do people say they do?) but boys do grow too large for them. So by the time I was in my 20s nothing fitted. When I got married at the end of the 1960s, it was not in the kilt as my father had done. Few did at this time and the cost was prohibitive. Some years later, however, I had a kilt made in modern dress (red) Robertson (which I still wear) and bought an off-the-peg black barathea Argyle jacket (with PC cuffs), black belt with 'silver' buckle and (I confess, on the advice of the tailor) a pair of black gillie brogues. With a limited budget and growing family this did for both day and occasional evening (black tie) wear. I was over dressed using it for day wear and under dressed for black-tie events but it was adequate during 16 years living and working in England, attending Burns' suppers and Hogmanay back in Scotland, and it was what I could afford at the time. My kilt pin was my father's old silver clan badge (with one letter of the motto missing).

Back in Scotland after 16 years in England, my son started attending weddings as a guest. My one kilt and jacket became a shared family resource! So, with increasing financial prosperity, I had ancient hunting Robertson kilts made for both of us (my son's as a birthday present). As with the previous kilt, I only remember the tailor offering two options: 13oz or 16oz weight. 8 yards was assumed as was knife pleating to the set. Although we are two different generations we both have tweed Argyle jackets with antler buttons, epaulettes and gauntlet cuffs. His attitude to gillie brogues was (with no influence fro his father), "I don't want those shoes with laces that go up your legs." He chose tan semi-brogues for smart day events such as weddings but prefers to dress down with brown leather trainers. He has no white hose, I do but only for unkilted wear with wellington boots!

With increasing prosperity and 40 years of gradually acquiring the 'right gear' I am able to dress for the occasion. For me, kilted day wear is hunting Robertson kilt, tweed Argyle jacket with brown or tan leather sporran and belt with brass buckle plate (or dark green wool waistcoat) and brown or black brogues (not gillies). Hose is plain green or blue.

For evening (black tie) events it's red Robertson kilt, black velvet Sheriffmuir doublet and waistcoat (or 'white silk' waistcoat or old green brocade waistcoat that are much cooler) usually with a black bow tie but I also have a highland cravat (tied with a coachman's knot). Sporran is usually grey sealskin with a silver-plated cantle; hose in black or tartan with black brogues.

I rarely wear the black Argyle jacket now since there are few formal events in the morning (requiring morning dress) but it served well as an acceptable compromise when I had four dependent mouths to feed.

In answer to David's specifics:
- I have two wearable kilts and one old deconstructed one to provide material for my grandson's first two (and perhaps three) kilts
- Hunting (green) Robertson for day wear and dress (red) Robertson for formal evening (black tie) wear but either kilt would do fine for both
- both are 16oz and 8 yards
- Kilt pins are my fathers old silver clan badge, a sword and miniature clan badge in pewter (a gift from work colleagues) and a silver celtic cross in Orcadian silver
- Both kilts are pleated to the set
-Both worn with a waistcoat or belt - brown or tan with brass buckle for day wear; black and silver in the evening (but I rarely wear the latter as the doublet is best with a waistcoat)
Both kilts are fairly modern and have belt loops which I use

Others have described and even produced typologies of how the kilt is worn in Scotland. These concur with my observations. However, every journey starts with a single step. The first time many Scots will wear a kilt, it will be from a hire shop with white hose, gillie brogues and PC during the day. IMHO a great first step! The boy friends of my two younger daughters, one Scottish, the other English, joined our family for Hogmanay in Argyle this year. Both hired and wore kilts for the first time (with hire shop white hose and gillie brogues) and I was absolutely delighted! Not because of the white hose and gillies but in spite of them!

Scots who buy kilts and full-dress sporrans for their weddings ofter turn up in them at rugby and football matches (the tartan army) with sports shirts, pushed-down socks and boots ... and why not? I would rather see the kilt worn with the 'wrong' accoutrements than not worn at all or only worn by a handful of purists and people with disposable income to spend on getting it right - among whom I count myself! On the other hand, those who are informed enough and have the resources to 'get it right', should, perhaps, be role models for others to emulate.

Kilt wearing in Scotland for most Scots is associated with a sense of occasion:

-Rights of passage such as christenings, graduations, weddings and, occasionally, funerals
- Social events such as dinners, dances, Burns supper, St Andrew's day parades and Hogmanay
- Sporting events such as highland games and supporting the national team
- Formal events such as royal garden parties and visits, civic receptions, special church services, armistice day (remembrance Sunday) and award evenings

From my observation, most Scots in Scotland wear national dress for celebrations of one sort or another. The kilt is only worn by a few as everyday clothing. Some because it is appropriate to their occupation such as selling Scottish produce, work in the tourist industry, or they are pipers. However, a small minority do wear it regularly without it being linked to either celebration or their occupation. Among them I can think of a few clergy, including a retired bishop, and some bar and hotel staff.

Outside Scotland, however, Scots turn up in kilts all over the place. I bumped into two in different parts of the Czech Republic last summer and, on one occasion, was wearing the kilt myself.

A bit late but lets see if this sparks of any worthwhile debate.

[CameronCat]

Mercy! What a thread...took the better part of an afternoon to read it.

So here's a tip o' the hat and a sassy flick of the cat's tail to all the participants for their well-thought contributions. Such erudition and civility is rare on Internet forums, and highest points to all the players.

Anyway, way back on some previous page, a post inquired "Are there any questions remaining?" I thought the discussion of tolerance for kilted tourists, disaffected students, etc., suggested a follow-up question. It's a bit off the OP's inquiry, but I think it has merit. To wit:

There are those here who hold hard to tradition and adhere to the rules--perceived or functional--for wearing a kilt. (Never too low, socks too high, wrong jacket, etc.) There are others who hold that in this modern day, the kilt is but another bit of clothing, to be worn and accessorized to the wearer's taste.

I ask:
Is the wearing of any kilt, regardless of manner or accessories, preferable to the kilt not being worn in the same circumstance? Which is the greater sin--wearing it "badly" (incorrectly) or not wearing it at all?

Discuss freely. Write upon both sides of forum if necessary.
Your mileage will vary; offer void where prohibited by lunch.

[JSFMACLJR]

In the photo, is that the Duke of Argyll I spot behind Niall Iain MacLean? Looks like him-just curious! It also appears he has a red toorie on his lovat green, diced balmoral-very interesting indeed! Thanks for the interesting posts-always a pleasure to view and to partake.

Yes, it is the Duke. Both he and his late father liked red toories on their bonnets.

[Deil the Yin]

...but as an American in the Highlands it is expected that you chaps will get it wrong! LOL

My only question is whether this is simply the thinly veiled contempt for Americans that one not infrequently encounters among Brits (I've certainly encountered it more than I'd care to), or are you speaking from personal experience by which you could site some examples? Or what's the give-away in knowing the difference between a Scot who's got it wrong and just an American?

Just curious.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Or what's the give-away in knowing the difference between a Scot who's got it wrong and just an American?

Just curious.

Two words come to mind: Attitude and accent. Make of it what you will. I have an "American Accent" and have never experienced the "thinly veiled contempt" to which you refer.

[gordontaos]

I agree with Macmillan about attitude and accent.
I moved from New York City to Dawson County, in the mountains of north Georgia, in the early 1980's. I was probably the only Yankee living in the county. However, even though I had been warned by many other Georgians about the dangers of me living in that county, I was only met with kindness and grace. Other "immigrants" were not as fortunate.
I then moved to a rural county in northern New Mexico, where as an "Anglo" I am in the minority. Again I have only been met by kindness and grace by the other two dominant cultures (Spanish and Indian).
I can only believe that the reason is attitude and accent. The attitude part can be readily understood by the reader. The accent part is a little more difficult. Everyone knows that I am not from here. I do not attempt to parody the local's speech, but I do attempt to pronounce names and places as the locals do. It goes a long long way.

[Jock Scot]

My only question is whether this is simply the thinly veiled contempt for Americans that one not infrequently encounters among Brits (I've certainly encountered it more than I'd care to), or are you speaking from personal experience by which you could site some examples? Or what's the give-away in knowing the difference between a Scot who's got it wrong and just an American?

Just curious.

I am genuinely sorry that you have felt that I have implied any contempt for Americans. As a nation, generally speaking, I hold America and Americans in high regard, perfect they are not, who is? I have met many many Americans and have enjoyed their company very much.Many of them have slept under my roof and dined with my family. They have a refreshing view on life, although an ability to laugh at themselves is deeply hidden,but when found, it is great to see! Almost to a man(women too)they come with a romantic idea of Scotland and baring that in mind it is hardly surprising that whilst they are desperately trying to fit in, they actually get it wrong.Like the fellow who insisted going stalking in his expensive handmade kilt and by the end of the day he had an expensive heap of rags and hypothermia.

Highland Scots, generally speaking, don't get it wrong when the chips are down.The kilt wearing knowledge abounds up here and there is usually someone not far away to advise. This is not meant to be offensive, or, controversial, but GENERALLY speaking the lowland Scots can on occasion get things wrong in the kilt wearing world, simply because the kilt tradition is not so deep. Not only that the hire companies do, I am afraid, lead people astray and that sad and all too common fact alone, knows no national boundary.

[Redshank]

Very well put Jock, I fully agree.

[Jock Scot]

Mercy! What a thread...took the better part of an afternoon to read it.

So here's a tip o' the hat and a sassy flick of the cat's tail to all the participants for their well-thought contributions. Such erudition and civility is rare on Internet forums, and highest points to all the players.

Anyway, way back on some previous page, a post inquired "Are there any questions remaining?" I thought the discussion of tolerance for kilted tourists, disaffected students, etc., suggested a follow-up question. It's a bit off the OP's inquiry, but I think it has merit. To wit:

There are those here who hold hard to tradition and adhere to the rules--perceived or functional--for wearing a kilt. (Never too low, socks too high, wrong jacket, etc.) There are others who hold that in this modern day, the kilt is but another bit of clothing, to be worn and accessorized to the wearer's taste.

I ask:
Is the wearing of any kilt, regardless of manner or accessories, preferable to the kilt not being worn in the same circumstance? Which is the greater sin--wearing it "badly" (incorrectly) or not wearing it at all?

Discuss freely. Write upon both sides of forum if necessary.
Your mileage will vary; offer void where prohibited by lunch.

I assume you expect us to be wearing something? Seriously though. If the kilt is being worn badly I would much rather not to see it worn at all.This may upset some, but I also include most of the "Tartan Army" as well, in my statement. Why? It shows lack of respect to Scotland. If being worn by non Scots badly it shows one or a mixture of all of the following; lack of respect for Scotland, indifference, ignorance and arrogance. Ignorance I can partly understand, in some circumstances, the rest I find insulting.