kilted in Flanders

[NewGuise]

No pics yet - I'll post something once the students send me some - but ...

Yesterday I was kilted for the first time in France and in Belgium, for a field trip that I led from Lille (where I'm staying for the month, with the European Summe Program run by l'Université Catholique de Lille) to Passchendaele and Ypres. Of course, given the occasion, I wore the Maple Leaf tartan.

When I walked in to the university I was surprised by the seeming lack of reaction; only later did colleagues here point out that nearly everyone was turning around for a second look from the back. And then I got some very loud reactions: first a honk, shout, and thumbs-up from a passing motorcyclist, then applause from two women who serve in the student cafeteria. One of those women (in French, of course) then said she had to ask me something; you can probably guess what it was, although she was very circumspect in the asking ... although, after I responded in the positive, she added that that she might require proof (My response: "Peut-être plus tard." They were still laughing when I rounded the next corner.)

Then the field trip. I'd of course been to these places before, but the students had not, and most had very little idea as to what WWI was all about. There was a similar field trip last year, but I was not in charge, and had never attempted anything of the sort - I'm an early theatre scholar, not a WWI historian.

At Tyne Cot Cemetery, the first stop, having given them a lot of facts and figures and dates pertaining to this largest of Commonwealth cemeteries, I suggested that they should look for one particular headstone, "IV G.21", to see what was written there. Commemorating 2nd Lieutenant Arthur Conway Young of the Royal Irish Fusilliers; born in Japan, he died aged 26 on 16 August 1917 (my son's birthday, 75 years later); the headstone carries an unusual personal message: “Sacrificed to the fallacy/That war can end war.” That encouraged discussion, but the search itself seemed to help get the students focussed in a way that didn't happen the last time. This group didn't even seem to mind the rain.

At Ypres/Ieper, the rain stopped. We visited both Menin Gate and "In Flanders' Fields" Museum - an excellent venue, where I met some fellow Albertans, active and retired officers on a battlefields tour. I didn't stay long, since I'd seen it before, but the students did, really looking at things. After an excellent supper, we got to attend the playing of Last Post and the laying of wreaths by a New Zealand delegation, back at a now-crowded Menin Gate. And there was a solo piper (in trews).

As the students boarded the bus to return to Lille, many made a point of telling me how much the trip meant to them, having had no clue in advance that it would mean anything at all.

And a couple of guys asked me where they might get a kilt ...

I'd call that a successful field trip.

[Lallans]

If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

Glad you made the trip with the kids.

[RB51]

I'd say that that was a very successful field trip! Any time someone's awareness can be raised about what war is, and what war does, particualrly by being at the scene of the actual battles, it's all to the good. Thank you for providing that insight for your students.

Laurie

[Paul Henry]

I was at Tyne Cot Cemetery, just a few months ago, it was a beautiful, but very cold day, and very peaceful and great light, the white Portland stone stones showed up very well, I took a few pictures, it was a very moving day

[highland mafia]

I had the oportunity a few years back to go to a bunch of ww1 sites with my father in law.. My father in law was at the time was a soon to be retired RAF Air Commadore. His last posting at SHAPE in Belgium. He had spent much time during Staff college at all these battle sites learning the various tactics and mistakes made in many of these places. We spent most of our time around Ypres. What was really amazing was he took me too places really off the beaten track. Old trenches preserved by local farmers, totally desserted and forgotten cemeteries, fairly good sized ponds/mini lakes that where in fact craters from under ground charges. He also took me to a really random hill very much off the trail. Took a good 30 min hard hiking to get to the top. But once there it over looked the whole Ypres battle field complete 180 view.. It was at this point he produced a couple of beers (Chimay if I recall) and sandwhiches and proceeded to give me the most amazing history lesson about the tactics and goals of both the German and Allies. We went to the Ypres museum which was breath taking. And finnished the day in Mons in a cafe in the Grande Place. Which if you don't know was where the last proper day of the war was spent. It really is an incredible place and should really be seen by all.

[English Bloke]

Thanks for posting this story, I look forward to the photos. I've been to these places many times and continue to return. Thanks too for handing the message on. Lest we forget...

[NewGuise]

Pics from the Flanders trip are slow in forthcoming, but on Saturday I led a trip, with a smaller group, mostly Canadian students, to Arras (the Wellington Quarry), Notre Dame de Lorette (the French National Cemetery), and of course Vimy Memorial. This time I have evidence: