Fusing metal, not steel or aluminum...advice?

[Downunder Kilt]

Brazing and welding are very different processes. Welding is a process where two similar metals are actually melted together. It is possible to do that with brass (I have done it), but not typical or practical and really does not work well.

More typical (as stated in the other thread) is to 'solder'. I consider soldering and brazing the same process, but technically soldering uses a filler metal that melts at less than 800F. At above 800F, it is brazing. It is interesting to note that by this definition, 'silver solder' is actually a brazing process. Go figure?

So, TBruce is quite correct, you want to braze using silver solder. What does one need to do this? A small oxy-acetylene torch rig is best, but it can even be done with something as simple as a propane torch.

One last option, as mentioned in the other thread, is to 'cast'.

I had to recently attach some spring steel to a brass rod and its position was really tricky, so a small oxy torch was out of the question. I used a propane torch and it just took a little longer to heat the piece, but did the job admirably

[davidlpope]

I had to recently attach some spring steel to a brass rod and its position was really tricky, so a small oxy torch was out of the question. I used a propane torch and it just took a little longer to heat the piece, but did the job admirably

I take it the sporran catch is fixed?

Cordially,
David

[Downunder Kilt]

I take it the sporran catch is fixed?

Cordially,
David

Thankyou David, it is, and it works a treat. I have received a number of glowing comments about it. The hardest thing about the repair was holding it all in place whilst undertaking the heating, but a butterfly clip did the job.

Cheers
Mike

[Micric]

I'd say soft solder the parts together.

It takes much less heat and is strong enough for anything sporran related.
(After all, British shotguns have the barrels soft-soldered together, and They don't fall apart!)
Soft solder can be had that contains no lead, if this is a worry. I think it is called silver bearing solder, or some such.
Soft soldering can be done very easily with a soldering iron, or a small propane torch. All you need is a decent flux, the type like a grease is good....don't use the solder with the "resin core", most times this doesn't want to work,..for me at any rate!

Best,
R.

[T-Bone]

I have been wanting to make my own brass waistplate. Will brazing hold the mounting hardware securely in place?

[MacBean]

In my experience, I'd say silver solder. It’s what I’ve always used on brass, copper, and other odd ball metals that can’t really be welded. Just my 2 cents….

Sea Bees Can Do

I have to agree here. Cantle construction is probably closer to jewelry than industrial work. The chief reason is that there is no joint visible in soldering, while welding leaves a pretty distinctive ripple that would need more filing than cleaning up a solder joint.

[kc8ufv]

I'd say soft solder the parts together.

It takes much less heat and is strong enough for anything sporran related.
(After all, British shotguns have the barrels soft-soldered together, and They don't fall apart!)
Soft solder can be had that contains no lead, if this is a worry. I think it is called silver bearing solder, or some such.
Soft soldering can be done very easily with a soldering iron, or a small propane torch. All you need is a decent flux, the type like a grease is good....don't use the solder with the "resin core", most times this doesn't want to work,..for me at any rate!

Best,
R.

Different types of solder are used for different things. Acid core solder is usually used for plumbing. Resin core is used for electronics. Resin core solder generally only sticks to bare copper, brass and other solder. When soldering, bregardless of metal, make sure the surface is clean, and make sure you heat the metal, not the solder.

[T-Bone]

I have been wanting to make my own brass waistplate. Will brazing hold the mounting hardware securely in place?

Well, I guess I am going to answer my own question. I bought some silver solder and flux on the way home from work to give it a try. Got home, kissed the wife and played with the kids, then went out to the man cave..er, garage. I had some scrap sheet brass and a brass rod. I followed the directions on the solder (clean the area to be joined and use the flux, apply heat and violen!, presto, its joined...in so many words). It was pretty easy to do and it holds well. I cannot bust it loose with my bare hands. It isn't pretty, but it works. I am going to have to practice getting it to look nice before applying it to the DIY waist plate, then again it will be on the back side. I will take some pics along the way.

TBone

[MacBean]

Sounds like you have a great start. But that's probably the easy part. What has me puzzled is how to make designs. Cantle makers showed some creativity in this. Sometimes they drilled holes and then filled them with brass bits we may no longer have to leave reverse dimples. I can see how to do that if I can find the bits (upholstery tacks?)

Sometimes there are concentric circles, which shouldn't be hard to mill out with a drill press and the right jig. What I think would be ideal would be a reverse pantograph where you could move a template around a large circle but it would come out as small, precise circles at the business end. or...

Something I've not seen done in brass, but that might be nice, is cutting out designs so that they show up behind the brass in a felt underlayer. Or use silver sheet behind the brass, or copper. I've always liked silver, brass, copper layers, but prefer the copper on top as it tarnishes fastest.

[artificer]

Something I've not seen done in brass, but that might be nice, is cutting out designs so that they show up behind the brass in a felt underlayer. Or use silver sheet behind the brass, or copper. I've always liked silver, brass, copper layers, but prefer the copper on top as it tarnishes fastest.

There are a few pierced brass designs, but most of the delicate work I've seen tends to be silver (or, at least, silver plate).

Frequently the first layer behind the metal cantle was a leather trim, usually with the edge pinked (saw-tooth or scalloped edging). If you look at the MacLeay paintings, you will see many metal cantles and hair sporrans with this under layer.

One BIG problem with copper is, not only does it tarnish, but is rubs off on all the materials around it, leaving blue-green oxidation on EVERYTHING.