January Tartan of the Month - What do you see?

**ForresterModern** · 2nd January 11, 08:06 AM

Just taking a stab, is it that the whole length of the fabric is one sett, from dark blue cross stripe at one end to the same stripe near the other end? If so that would make the sett size at least a couple yards, and the sett extremely complex from a threadcount standpoint. It would also mean that the width is only a portion of the sett, probably the middle portion.

Getting closer?

**figheadair** · 2nd January 11, 11:41 AM

Originally Posted by ForresterModern

Just taking a stab, is it that the whole length of the fabric is one sett, from dark blue cross stripe at one end to the same stripe near the other end? If so that would make the sett size at least a couple yards, and the sett extremely complex from a threadcount standpoint. It would also mean that the width is only a portion of the sett, probably the middle portion.

Getting closer?

Getting colder

**Orvis** · 3rd January 11, 03:01 PM

I'll posit a guess and say this is an 18th c. piece of rural domestic tartan woven as a shawl or airisaid, with a border sett woven around all four edges and a herringbone selvedge (displayed on one long edge in the close-up photo, and probably repeated on the other side as well). There does not appear to be a selvedge mark. This, together with the tasseled finish on the ends, strongly suggests that this length of tartan was intended for domestic use. If the fabric was woven as one piece, the loom must have been quite wide for a rural loom. If it is a joined plaid, I cannot see if there is a length-wise joining seam in the middle (along the white stripe), but I wouldn't be surprised if there was one and that the halves of this piece were woven to a very narrow width (perhaps 17"-18"), which is not unprecedented. Although the sett is very large (as were the setts on tartan woven to be joined and worn as a belted plaid), the presence on all four sides of the border sett confirms to me that the fabric was intended to be used as a shawl or airisaid. As to the red ground color of the tartan, it is my guess that this tartan was intended for a high-status or wealthy household, given that red was reportedly gotten from expensive dye-stuff and was an indicator of high social status. According to Figheadair's research papers on his website, other border-sett lengths of tartan have been located in Nova Scotia, but I couldn't guess whether they were woven in Scotland and brought over by immigrants, or if the old tartan weaving technique flourished for a while in Gaelic settlements in the New World.

**Morris at Heathfield** · 3rd January 11, 10:55 PM

Is there a join? If so, is it not in the center but, say, 19 to 20 inches from one selvage and about 14 inches from the other?

**figheadair** · 3rd January 11, 11:27 PM

Originally Posted by Morris at Heathfield

Is there a join? If so, is it not in the center but, say, 19 to 20 inches from one selvage and about 14 inches from the other?

A little research trick. It's usually possible to copy pictures into a graphics programme and enlarge them and although they will often pixulate it's possible to gain further information by doing so.

There is no join. If there were it would be on the middle white line. There is no case of a joined plaid having two halves of different widths nor would it be practical or sensible as the loom would have to be set for two separate widths which would necessitate a lot of extra work for no gain.

**figheadair** · 3rd January 11, 11:32 PM

Originally Posted by orvice

I'll posit a guess and say this is an 18th c. piece of rural domestic tartan woven as a shawl or airisaid, with a border sett woven around all four edges and a herringbone selvedge (displayed on one long edge in the close-up photo, and probably repeated on the other side as well). There does not appear to be a selvedge mark. This, together with the tasseled finish on the ends, strongly suggests that this length of tartan was intended for domestic use. If the fabric was woven as one piece, the loom must have been quite wide for a rural loom. If it is a joined plaid, I cannot see if there is a length-wise joining seam in the middle (along the white stripe), but I wouldn't be surprised if there was one and that the halves of this piece were woven to a very narrow width (perhaps 17"-18"), which is not unprecedented. Although the sett is very large (as were the setts on tartan woven to be joined and worn as a belted plaid), the presence on all four sides of the border sett confirms to me that the fabric was intended to be used as a shawl or airisaid. As to the red ground color of the tartan, it is my guess that this tartan was intended for a high-status or wealthy household, given that red was reportedly gotten from expensive dye-stuff and was an indicator of high social status. According to Figheadair's research papers on his website, other border-sett lengths of tartan have been located in Nova Scotia, but I couldn't guess whether they were woven in Scotland and brought over by immigrants, or if the old tartan weaving technique flourished for a while in Gaelic settlements in the New World.

A good guess and along the right lines. I won't spoil it for everyone else just yet but as I mentioned above, there's no join. Look again at the close up. Herringbone?

**Orvis** · 4th January 11, 02:51 PM

Originally Posted by figheadair

A good guess and along the right lines. I won't spoil it for everyone else just yet but as I mentioned above, there's no join. Look again at the close up. Herringbone?

Hmm - maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me, but as I looked at the long edge in the close-up, it appeared that the twill line at the selvedge by the black stripe did a right-angle dog-leg, making it appear to be a herringbone pattern. But closer examination of the red area along the selvedge does not show this, indicating no herringbone weave along the selvedge. I stand corrected, sir!

**figheadair** · 7th January 11, 06:35 AM

Come on guys, and girls. No more takers?

**KenB** · 7th January 11, 07:59 AM

I would love to take a stab at this! However, my knowledge of the process of weaving and of historical tartans is next to nil. From an historical perspective, is it possible that this is a tartan from the family of John MacDonald who arrived in PEI, then Isle St. Jean in the late 1700's.

JOHN (Iain MacDhòmhnaill), MacDONALD OF GLENALADALE, army officer and colonizer; b. 29 Sept. 1742 in Scotland, eldest son of Alexander M’Donald of Glenaladale and Margaret MacDonell of Scothouse (Scotus); d. 28 Dec. 1810 on his estate, Tracadie (lots 35 and 36), P.E.I.

Just a guess.

BTW, I really enjoy these posts and a huge thank you to Peter for providing such
challenging and interesting tartans for us to muse over. A great learning experience!

**figheadair** · 7th January 11, 09:01 AM

Originally Posted by KenB

I would love to take a stab at this! However, my knowledge of the process of weaving and of historical tartans is next to nil. From an historical perspective, is it possible that this is a tartan from the family of John MacDonald who arrived in PEI, then Isle St. Jean in the late 1700's.

JOHN (Iain MacDhòmhnaill), MacDONALD OF GLENALADALE, army officer and colonizer; b. 29 Sept. 1742 in Scotland, eldest son of Alexander M’Donald of Glenaladale and Margaret MacDonell of Scothouse (Scotus); d. 28 Dec. 1810 on his estate, Tracadie (lots 35 and 36), P.E.I.

Just a guess.

BTW, I really enjoy these posts and a huge thank you to Peter for providing such
challenging and interesting tartans for us to muse over. A great learning experience!

Bang on. It belongs to the same family that now owns the piece of the original Glenaldale that was copied in the 1960s. More details are in the paper that I've writtien on this month's piece (available late Jan) but suffice to say that they don't know anything about it before they inherited in some 40-50 year ago.