My new brogues

**Calico** · 26th March 11, 12:41 PM

Longhuntr74 - I hesitated posting since I knew you were looking specifically for wingtips, while my real goal was ghillies, although I was considering wingtips so I could wear them more often.

Have you looked at the Allen Edmonds clearance page? $249 instead of $325+ makes a nice difference. MacNeil brown, Hinsdale brown, Hinsdale chestnut, Cambridge walnut...

I think I'm going to pick up one of these. Again, thanks for the thread. I started out thinking $300 for a pair of shoes was exorbitant. Now I know that is a pretty good price for this quality.

I just noticed most are not available in realistic sizes, but the Hinsdale chestnut is.

**creagdhubh** · 26th March 11, 12:46 PM

They look quite smart, but be sure to check out Loake as well. All of my high-polished black, brown, tan, dark brown, and mahogany brogue style shoes (full and half brogues, UK size 10, F fitting) come from Loake. They also make a "Ghillie Brogue", complete with the long laces and open tongue. They are very nice, as they do not have the disgusting chunky sole and heel that most commerical Ghillie Brogues have today. Loake's ghillies, like in all of their shoes, are hand-made and the quality is just superb. Most of their brogue styles are around $255-300 a pair, not including Loake cedar shoe-trees, which are mandatory in my opinion. A fair price for the attention to detail and wonderul English craftsmanship you receive. I have owned Loake shoes for 5 years now and am quite the satisfied customer!

www.loake.co.uk

My Loake 758's in action whilst performing the Highland Fling! I typically take my leather-soled brogues off whilst dancing, or wear soft-soled dance ghillies, but this was a last minute Fling with no time for either of the preceding!

Cheers!

**Calico** · 26th March 11, 01:16 PM

Indeed, the Loakes are desirable, too. The only argument (for me) between Loake and Allen Edmonds is which side of the pond one is on. Both offer free shipping for their respective markets.

And the Loake Royal is extremely similar to the Allen Edmonds MacNeil I just purchased. $6.00 difference in price. But I expect I'll have an easier time dealing "locally".

Royal:

MacNeil:

**creagdhubh** · 26th March 11, 01:28 PM

Originally Posted by Calico

Indeed, the Loakes are desirable, too. The only argument (for me) between Loake and Allen Edmonds is which side of the pond one is on. Both offer free shipping for their respective markets.

And the Loake Royal is extremely similar to the Allen Edmonds MacNeil I just purchased. $6.00 difference in price. But I expect I'll have an easier time dealing "locally".

Royal:

MacNeil:

I own the Loake Royal Brogue, in both the black and brown colours. It is a very nice shoe indeed!

**davidlpope** · 26th March 11, 03:14 PM

Originally Posted by Calico

Indeed, the Loakes are desirable, too. The only argument (for me) between Loake and Allen Edmonds is which side of the pond one is on. Both offer free shipping for their respective markets.

And the Loake Royal is extremely similar to the Allen Edmonds MacNeil I just purchased. $6.00 difference in price. But I expect I'll have an easier time dealing "locally".

Royal:

MacNeil:

Be advised, though, that the AE MacNeil's sole construction is quite heavy. This makes for a very good "country shoe" (as full-brogues are supposed to be, despite often being worn with business suits here in the South), but they are a little clunky at times. I have a pair in Shell Cordovan and love them, but usually don't wear them with anything dressier than cords or flannels with a sportcoat or blazer.

David

**Dale-of-Cedars** · 27th March 11, 08:15 AM

At the instigation of my better half I got some decent shoes for my son's wedding to wear with my kilt. Though they are made overseas now, I went with the Florsheim Imperial Kenmoors for $225 US. In the pebbled black leather I was going for an effect that was a little more toward casual than full-dress.

I ordered them over the phone and was lucky enough to talk to a young man who also wears them and he recommended going one size smaller on the length (down to a 12 from my measured 12-1/2 instead of 13) as in his experience the Kenmoors are built a little long.

Also this is the first time in my life I actually ordered the correct width for my feet. I've always made do with the wider shoes 'off the rack' but gambled and went with the 12C. And gambled further in sending them to my son's address in California to take advantage of the free shipping.

Thankfully the gamble paid off, they fit, and fit well.

The full-welt soles were very stiff to start with; much like Canadian army parade boots (I've worn a few pairs of those.) I broke them in slowly in and around the hotel in the week prior and finally wore them the whole of the wedding day with no problems... except for the rose petals strewn on the concrete path to the gazebo. Smooth leather soles become frictionless on a layer of rose petals. Thankfully I had my lady's arm and didn't do much more than slide a couple of inches.

I WILL be putting Topy or Vibram on the soles after they wear in a little more.

**longhuntr74** · 27th March 11, 12:24 PM

Originally Posted by Dale-of-Cedars

At the instigation of my better half I got some decent shoes for my son's wedding to wear with my kilt. Though they are made overseas now, I went with the Florsheim Imperial Kenmoors for $225 US. In the pebbled black leather I was going for an effect that was a little more toward casual than full-dress.

I ordered them over the phone and was lucky enough to talk to a young man who also wears them and he recommended going one size smaller on the length (down to a 12 from my measured 12-1/2 instead of 13) as in his experience the Kenmoors are built a little long.

Also this is the first time in my life I actually ordered the correct width for my feet. I've always made do with the wider shoes 'off the rack' but gambled and went with the 12C. And gambled further in sending them to my son's address in California to take advantage of the free shipping.

Thankfully the gamble paid off, they fit, and fit well.

The full-welt soles were very stiff to start with; much like Canadian army parade boots (I've worn a few pairs of those.) I broke them in slowly in and around the hotel in the week prior and finally wore them the whole of the wedding day with no problems... except for the rose petals strewn on the concrete path to the gazebo. Smooth leather soles become frictionless on a layer of rose petals. Thankfully I had my lady's arm and didn't do much more than slide a couple of inches.

I WILL be putting Topy or Vibram on the soles after they wear in a little more.

My father was a school teacher who wore a suit to school everyday (I know...you'd never see that these days). Back in the late 70s or early 80s he had a pair of these in brown for sure...not sure, but I think he may have had some black ones as well. They were built solid, from what I can remember. I know he wore his wingtips regularly...only occasionally wearing something else...a pair of slip-on style tassel loafers or the like. The lasted him for YEARS!

I'm glad you had good luck...but I doubt they are worth the price. Most of the other handmade shoes that have been referenced on here can be had for $25-100 more...a much better deal in my opinion. Especially after observing the quality of the other two pair of Florsheims (one that I own and the one I just sent back for a full refund). As I think I said before (if not, I'm saying it now)...Florsheim will no longer be a brand of shoe that I consider spending money on. The name used to mean quality...not anymore. I'll be looking to purchase a pair of shoes made in America or the UK...by hand (with the help of machines, of course)...with good quality control and attention to detail.

**Calico** · 1st April 11, 07:59 PM

I just received the Allen Edmonds MacNeil shoes I mentioned in post #33 above. I am very pleased! They are simply so superior to all the shoes I tried on previously.

Interesting that Dale-of-Cedars went shorter and narrower. I went up 1/2 size and 1 width wider (10E instead of 9 1/2 D) so they would work with kilt hose and the fit is perfect.

As noted above by davidlpope, they do have a thick sole. However, they look perfect for wear every day in a suited office environment where they will not be pampered. I would not get them specifically for truly formal wear once or twice a year shoes.

I have no idea how they managed to get a photo of these shiny black shoes. My photos do not turn out well at all, but since pics are "in the rules"...

As soon as I got home (stoked they arrived):

And with kilt hose (Lewis hose from Scottish Tartans Museum):

**Dale-of-Cedars** · 1st April 11, 08:48 PM

Looking good!

Originally Posted by Calico

Interesting that Dale-of-Cedars went shorter and narrower. I went up 1/2 size and 1 width wider (10E instead of 9 1/2 D) so they would work with kilt hose and the fit is perfect.

I may still rue that decision if I get some really thick fancy hose, but there is still plenty of room in the toe, and I actually measured as a 12.5B and got 12C. So we shall see...

**longhuntr74** · 2nd April 11, 01:48 PM

Calico...great looking shoes. As soon as I've gotten my refund on the Florsheims and receive a claim check that I have coming, I'll be ordering my Walnut McAllisters. I may one day replace the two substandard pair of black brogues that I have as well...but for now, I'm just going to wear them until they die.

Just a question...is it possible to turn a pair of non-welted shoes into welted shoes? I have a pair of Scottish made brogues that I purchased off Scotweb...was disappointed when the soles started to pull off after one wear. I've reglued them, and they seem to be holding well for now...but when the soles get worn out, is there a way to resole them? Just curious...the uppers are pretty nice...just poor quality soles.