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Thread: "Jacobite" garb

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodsheal View Post
    Do you have a clearer or close-up pic of your jacket? The contrasting cuffs are great, but it's difficult to see the actual cut of the coat in the posted photo...
    I'll have to take some when I get a chance.

    The cuffs are modified from the pattern which was originally something much like this.

    http://www.reconstructinghistory.com...s-frock-coat-1

    I obtained use of the pattern while working on a French and Indian war film where I made a number of these. Our copy was a used pattern paper version loaned by a reenactor's supplier so they may have copied it themselves off of jackets that they had in the shop, but it was regarded by the historians as a good pattern.

    I made the flare below the waist a bit less pronounced and left off the optional collar.

    It's a pretty basic pattern with side seams, a center back seam and single piece sleeves. I shortened it a number of inches as it was quite long to begin with and did alterations to make it fit down to my size. If that has totally murdered the historical sense of it, my apologies. I did not drastically alter the shape or number of pieces used so the "cut" should be close to how it was intended and within reasonable variation.

    The black cuffs and front facing were entirely my idea based on a painting of a highlander with solid cuffs on his tartan coat. I cut it on the bias because I like things that way if it's a historical foible I'd like to know. I didn't go to much expense in making it, so if I should in the future I'd like to get it "right"

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hothir Ethelnor View Post
    I'll have to take some when I get a chance.

    The cuffs are modified from the pattern which was originally something much like this.

    http://www.reconstructinghistory.com...s-frock-coat-1

    I obtained use of the pattern while working on a French and Indian war film where I made a number of these. Our copy was a used pattern paper version loaned by a reenactor's supplier so they may have copied it themselves off of jackets that they had in the shop, but it was regarded by the historians as a good pattern.

    I made the flare below the waist a bit less pronounced and left off the optional collar.

    It's a pretty basic pattern with side seams, a center back seam and single piece sleeves. I shortened it a number of inches as it was quite long to begin with and did alterations to make it fit down to my size. If that has totally murdered the historical sense of it, my apologies. I did not drastically alter the shape or number of pieces used so the "cut" should be close to how it was intended and within reasonable variation.

    The black cuffs and front facing were entirely my idea based on a painting of a highlander with solid cuffs on his tartan coat. I cut it on the bias because I like things that way if it's a historical foible I'd like to know. I didn't go to much expense in making it, so if I should in the future I'd like to get it "right"
    That's not a bad pattern, though a bit late for the '45: the cuffs are smaller and the front curves back (such coats being meant to be worn open). The 1730s-40s coat pattern from the same source is ideal.

    Your contrasting solid-colored cuffs are fine, though in the photo they appear to come up to a point like modern "gauntlet cuffs." Your idea for a facing is on the wrong track, however. Facings were seen on military coats with turn-backs on the front (i.e. double-breasted), not civilian coats of that period.

    Basically, a shortened tartan version of this coat would be ideal:


    The collars and "slash" style cuffs are correct as well, becoming popular on highland jackets during the 1740s:
    Brian

    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~ Benjamin Franklin

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