If you are of slightly unusual proportion, wish to have a properly fitted jacket, but DON'T have the coin for a made-to-measure; a good tailor is going to be your best friend.

Buy the jacket that fits best in the shoulders and torso and have the sleeves taken up.

For years I had the problem that nobody made a suit with a 12" drop (difference between chest and waist measurement), so I'd always be forced to have the side and back seams broken and remade.

Luckily (sadly) this is a problem I don't have to deal with anymore and can now buy suits with a standard or athletic cut, depending on the maker.

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