I have seen it done both ways -- either an overlay or seamed in as a single layer. With the 16 oz (?) wool Cthulhu fabric, I suspect a graded seam would be the best choice. You'd have to be careful when pressing but I think an overlay approach would just be too thick and the pleats would splay out at rest.
Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].
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