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 Originally Posted by Woot22
Goodness, so that is what a $700.00 pair of shoes buys me, rather fascinating. You certainly seem to know your shoes bro, very intriguing indeed sir, thanks for the info.
Well, to be fair, it is a 'point of view' albeit a privileged one--I have been making boots and shoes for 40 years.
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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 Originally Posted by DWFII
Well, to be fair, it is a 'point of view' albeit a privileged one--I have been making boots and shoes for 40 years.
Just so I am on the same sheet of music so to speak, which side of the fence do you come down on as far as appropriate shoes for evening attire in a kilt? And which manufacturers do you recommend? When you say you been making shoes for 40 years do you mean running your own business or working for a larger company? If it running your own company I would assume then you just make your own shoes which is pretty sweet.
"Blood is the price of victory"
- Karl von Clausewitz
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 Originally Posted by Woot22
Just so I am on the same sheet of music so to speak, which side of the fence do you come down on as far as appropriate shoes for evening attire in a kilt? And which manufacturers do you recommend? When you say you been making shoes for 40 years do you mean running your own business or working for a larger company? If it running your own company I would assume then you just make your own shoes which is pretty sweet.
Appropriate? I think that's more or less a matter of taste and personal preference, but I'm not fond of Mary Janes (even though I understand the rationale) and as I understand it ghillies are pretty recent and as Matt said (or at least the way I read him) were "invented" for pipers.
I like what Edward the VIII (DOW) was wearing in that photo over in another thread (Formal Buckle Shoes). And that's what I wear myself...again personal preference. There's a photo of me wearing a pair I made for myself there too. That said, I've never been invited to a black tie event...I don't know or run with anyone in those kinds of circles...and don't expect to be.
Yes, I make bespoke...custom-made to the customer's foot...never worked for anyone else.
I don't mention brand names or denigrate other makers (even if they are manufacturers) so I can't help you there, but see my post above. Just understand that the less you pay the less you get.
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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 Originally Posted by Woot22
Goodness, so that is what a $700.00 pair of shoes buys me, rather fascinating. You certainly seem to know your shoes bro, very intriguing indeed sir, thanks for the info.
I might add that even at $700.00-$1200.00 for top-shelf English-made RTW, you'll still be getting Goodyear welted construction. Of course, these firms try their best to maintain quality in every other respect...usually opting for leather heel stacks, stiffeners, insoles, and prime, top grain calf uppers, etc.. But employing and paying a shoemaker who knows how...and is skilled enough...to handwelt is a non-starter for them. Just too expensive and too slow compared with what an automated "line" can do.
A good hand-welted, RTW shoe (usually made in eastern Europe) will run in the neighborhood of $900.00+ and top shelf bespoke (always hand-welted) can set you back three or four times that...although good quality bespoke can be had for about the same as the Hungarian RTW, even here in the States.
Of course, the best and most easily understood comparison (here on XMTS) is kilts. What does a canvas kilt cost compared to an 8 yard, 18 or 22 ounce Scottish wool kilt hand stitched in Scotland? Are you getting your money's worth? I would argue "yes" but then I'm in the same sort of Trade.
Last edited by DWFII; 28th May 11 at 10:06 AM.
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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I stand behind Loake Shoemakers, England.
Cheers,
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This shoe discussion has been very educational (probably not in the right thread though...). At risk of taking the thread further off track, or perpetuating the side excursion, DWFII's discussion about hand welting vs. goodyear welting prompted me to go googling. I found this blog that more clearly showed me the difference. I was a bit confused how the two techniques varied. Now I can see the difference. So if anyone else is interested, here's the blog: Bespoke Shoes
"If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." -- Thomas Paine
Scottish-American Military Society Post 1921
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 Originally Posted by longhuntr74
This shoe discussion has been very educational (probably not in the right thread though...). At risk of taking the thread further off track, or perpetuating the side excursion, DWFII's discussion about hand welting vs. goodyear welting prompted me to go googling. I found this blog that more clearly showed me the difference. I was a bit confused how the two techniques varied. Now I can see the difference. So if anyone else is interested, here's the blog: Bespoke Shoes
I'm very familiar with James Carreducker's wonderful and generous blog. I'm not sure what the link you provided is adding to the discussion, but as long as you're visiting there look at this which shows hand-welting quite clearly:
Welting the Toe
And this, which has some photos of gemmed shoes and boots--one of which is a highly touted English maker:
Behind the veil
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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Thanks for the links...
 Originally Posted by DWFII
I'm very familiar with James Carreducker's wonderful and generous blog. I'm not sure what the link you provided is adding to the discussion, but as long as you're visiting there look at this which shows hand-welting quite clearly:
Welting the Toe
And this, which has some photos of gemmed shoes and boots--one of which is a highly touted English maker:
Behind the veil
I posted that particular link because it was the beginning of a series that starts with Lasting and progresses through the toe construction, etc. But the link you posted to that same block got directly to the point (on a different pair of shoes, apparently). Having watched the videos of construction on the AE, Loake, and Danner websites, I was having a hard time differentiating between the hand welting technique you described vs. Goodyear welts. That blog helped me to better visualize it. I quickly previewed your long essay and look forward to reading it. It probably would have been a one stop shop if I had just asked you for a better reference in the first place.
"If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." -- Thomas Paine
Scottish-American Military Society Post 1921
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 Originally Posted by longhuntr74
I posted that particular link because it was the beginning of a series that starts with Lasting and progresses through the toe construction, etc. But the link you posted to that same block got directly to the point (on a different pair of shoes, apparently). Having watched the videos of construction on the AE, Loake, and Danner websites, I was having a hard time differentiating between the hand welting technique you described vs. Goodyear welts. That blog helped me to better visualize it. I quickly previewed your long essay and look forward to reading it. It probably would have been a one stop shop if I had just asked you for a better reference in the first place.
I didn't catch that...when I looked at the link it didn't seem to relate. Sometimes that happens especially on blogs. A link that appears to cover the relevant material seems to default back to the current entry or some sort of "homepage"...I don't know.
But I wasn't criticizing, I just want you to know...
Last edited by DWFII; 29th May 11 at 08:57 AM.
DWFII--Traditionalist and Auld Crabbit
In the Highlands of Central Oregon
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