Avoiding the 'pleat flip'

**slohairt** · 8th November 09, 09:27 AM

I thought it looked that way as soon as I wrote it!

**bricelythgoe** · 8th November 09, 09:38 AM

Originally Posted by turpin

That must be my problem. I alway measure over brand new clothing.

Another reason that first pleat can flip is if the apron is not properly shaped. The over aprons on Stillwater wool kilts, for example (at least the three I have) are A-shaped on the right side but the crease in the first pleat follows the tartan line on the left side. On my SWK Saffron I actually re-shaped the pleat with an iron and it helpd reduce the pleat flipping. I havea PV kilt in maple leaf tartan from another kiltmaker with the same problem, and it also has a straight left side on the apron, so it's not necessarilyan issue of being too tight as much as aporn construction.

That is what happened from Burnetts and struths. I re-ironed that first pleat and it looks great now.

Brice

**Bugbear** · 8th November 09, 09:39 AM

I was going to stay out of it because I am not a kilt maker, but this almost came up. There may be an additional steeking issue, though I'm not too sure about the first pleat having steeking issues. Supporting the pleat with stitching on both edges at the bottom of the fell does seem to help, and I experimented with this before I removed the fabric in the fell area on the Stillwater.

As stated the apron shape is an issue with some kilts, and a little reshaping might be needed.

**Squeaky McMurdo** · 10th November 09, 03:55 PM

IMO you should go with a 42 hip measurement. JD can fit snugly in a 40 or 41, but erring on the side of a little bit bigger has proven to make the pleats hang better.

Too bad you're not closer, otherwise you could try on his kilts. lol.

My 18 month old daughter is in love with the dog on your avatar by the way. She was pointing at it and got upset when I scrolled down.

--Chelsea McMurdo--

**bricelythgoe** · 10th November 09, 04:50 PM

Originally Posted by Squeaky McMurdo

IMO you should go with a 42 hip measurement. JD can fit snugly in a 40 or 41, but erring on the side of a little bit bigger has proven to make the pleats hang better.

Too bad you're not closer, otherwise you could try on his kilts. lol.

My 18 month old daughter is in love with the dog on your avatar by the way. She was pointing at it and got upset when I scrolled down.

--Chelsea McMurdo--

You want to keep him?? Just kidding. I think that is what I am going to do. Hopefully I will order this week. Unless your husband has a good used one...