Tartan tweed

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Hi Matt,

I already have a kilt in the Modern and Ancient version. But a search on the net has brought up a hunting version and I couldn't find it in anywhere in the registries (sp). (but I do remember seeing a kiltmaker on the net selling one...)(EDIT: found it
http://kiltsbylindsay.co.uk/products...ay-tartan.html)

Is it a lindsay or some other tartan that has been renamed for some reason?

I really want to know which is why I'm asking a pro...

Well, I stand corrected! I was not familiar with this tartan, as I have never seen a Lindsay wear it, nor have I seen it in any of their clan materials. Likewise, I have not seen it on the stock availability lists of any of the Scottish tartan weavers.

It is, however, in the International Tartan Index. The STA gives the source as Pringles, and the notes indicate that it may simply be a fashion tartan created by Pringles mill, but there is really not much more information than that.

I find it telling that the sett resembles the Thompson tartan more than the Lindsay. (The Thompson sett is used quite a bit in the fashion industry).

So in my opinion it likely is a fashion tartan.

I did take the time to look at several Clan Lindsay society web sites to see what they have to say about the tartan. Only one mentions the hunting. That is the Clan Lindsay Association USA.

Lindsay International only mention the modern and ancient tartans, The Clan Lindsay Society of Australia manetions the the modern and ancient plus two dance variations, while the Clan Lindsay Society website does not mention tartan at all.

I was hoping to find some kind of statement from the chief on the matter, but no such luck.

So, if you want to have a length of the Hunting tartan woven up as Harris Tweed I could certainly do it for you. But my gut feeling is that this is really more of a fashion tartan than a clan sett. That certainly does not mean you cannot wear it if you like! I just want to be sure you know the provenance of it if you do decide to have me order the cloth for you.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

A few have posted links to other places where you can buy tartan tweed. This is fine. I just want to point out that if you purchase your Harris Tweed from another source, I can still make the kilt from you for a $250 CMT fee (plus shipping). Be sure when you order that you check the width of the cloth. Much of Harris Tweed is woven single width, meaning you need to order the full amount of cloth you need for your kilt (i.e. if you want a four yard box pleated kilt, you need to order four yards).

Occasionally you will find it in double width lengths, in which case you can generally get by with ordering only half of what you need (i.e. two yards for a four yard box pleated kilt), however, you may want to check with the supplier to make sure that the cloth can be split and joined.

Tartan woven specifically for kiltmaking will be balanced across the weft of the cloth, so that when you cut and turn the fabric to join it, the pattern will match up. But not all tartan Harris tweed is woven with kiltmaking in mind, so this may or may not be the case with any random length that you buy. In that case it would be best to order enough cloth so that a kilt could be made without having to cut and join the material, and you will simply have extra left over.

Also, I will point out that I do have the ability to have Harris Tweed woven to order in any tartan, if you cannot find what you want available otherwise.

[davidg]

Is it a lindsay or some other tartan that has been renamed for some reason?

I'm waiting with baited breath for the answer on this one. I cannot see this tartan anywhere in the lists of the suppliers I use and, if Matt says it doesn't exist, I trust him

I have met the kilt maker whose website you provided and I don't have confidence he is right. He only lives 2 miles away from me and although I will vouch for him making good kilts I won't vouch for this being right

[MacMillans son]

It is, however, in the International Tartan Index. The STA gives the source as Pringles, and the notes indicate that it may simply be a fashion tartan created by Pringles mill, .

Ahhh, much like the "MacMillan Black" Matt ? A fashion tartan playing off of a clan name.

[be da veva]

Thank you matt, I was wondering why it didn't look like a variant but completely different.
Chances are my next kilt will be a tartan tweed. My order is coming soon.

Not the Hunting version....

[Tobus]

Also, I will point out that I do have the ability to have Harris Tweed woven to order in any tartan, if you cannot find what you want available otherwise.

This intrigues me. I really, really like the looks of Harris tweed in a kilt. And I've been wanting to do a custom run of a weathered version of my clan tartan, as you know. I hadn't even thought about going with a tartan tweed.

Can you tell me what the weight of this cloth is, as a comparison to 16oz worsted wool tartan? Or is it even comparable that way?

Also, would the tartan tweed be suitable for making into a tartan waistcoat, day plaid, etc? Is it well suited to a traditional 8-yard knife-pleated kilt, or is the lay of the cloth just too fluffy for that?

What kind of lead time is there on a custom run of tartan Harris tweed?

[Joshua]

Matt,
Generally speaking, what would the cost difference be for a 6-yard knife-pleated tartan kilt in Harris Tweed, compared to your regular prices of a kilt in Strome? Specifically in the Davidson Modern tartan (or even Davidson Double if the price wasn't exceptionally different)?

I wouldn't even bother with going with Ancient or Weathered colors - I think the texture alone would give the fabric all the depth I would need even if the modern colors were chosen.

Sorry for the threadjack - we now return to your regularly scheduled thread.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Tobus,

The weight does not necessarily compare. The Harris Tweed weavers consider this their "light weight" cloth. When I first placed an order with them, I told them I wanted heavy weight. They assured me that their "light weight" was what they recommended for kilts, and I took their recommendation. Glad I did. It is more than heavy enough! I have not bothered putting the cloth on a scale to see how many ounces one yard weighs, but the cloth is much thicker than typical worsted wool, and it certainly does keep you warm.

Yes, it is perfectly suited to make into waistcoats, day plaids, etc. And I would not recommend trying to make an 8 yard kilt from it. My personal opinion is that the cloth would just be too bulky, though I am not saying it could not be done. I think a 5 or 6 yard kilt is more than sufficient, myself.

Josh, the cost on a 6 yard Harris Tweed kilt is $595, compared to $475 for a stocked tartan in worsted wool (or $595 for a custom woven tartan in worsted wool).

Lead time would be approximately 6 months.

Thanks for all the questions!

[Cowher]

Matt what tartans are available in the Harris tweed?

[xman]

Matt, how does the 'lightweight' tweed fare in the wind? I find my 16oz tweed actually feels and functions like a lighter (medium?) weight worsted wool. It's very comfortable when it's still, but the wind goes through it easier. I ask because I'm on a quest for the best cloth for a kilt for inclement weather. I'm leaning toward regimental weight worsted wool, but curious about tweed and the design is also up in the air.