Montrose Doublet

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Sean, as one Irirsh man to another, I'm going to have to disagree with you, just a tad, over the use of "regulation" vs "standard" when describing doublets. In my admittedly far from complete collection of scottish outfitters catalogues (1910 up through the mid 50s) a gentleman's evening doublet is repeatedly referred to as a standard doublet. In Renton's catalogue (c.1950 but definately post-WWII) they list a bandsman's jacket as "our regulation doublet" and the illustration shows a typical standing collar, button up the front, band jacket. Similar to, but different than, the illustration of a "standard evening doublet" elsewhere in their catalogue. I believe that the term "regulation" comes from the fact the the bandsmans jackets conform in style to the "regulation pattern" of those worn by the army.

Interestingly, it is not until the introduction of the Prince Charlie Coatee that most outfitters begin to call their doublets "standard" as in "our standard doublet", probably to give a boost to the sales of the then new (and certinly cheaper to make) PCC. Early catalogues simply refer to a doublet or evening doublet.

It would be intersting to know when and how the word "regulation" came to be applied to the civilian doublet. I suspect it may be a carry over from the Lord Chamberlain's rules for dress worn at Court (a doublet is required for Scottish levee dress) but that is pure speculation on my part.

Now if bandsmen do not wear "regulation doublets", what do they wear?

With best regards from a Wicklow man--

[thescot]

[QUOTE=MacMillan of Rathdown;469287]. . .Now if bandsmen do not wear "regulation doublets", what do they wear?. . .QUOTE]

Khaki shirts?

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

[QUOTE=thescot;469378]

. . .Now if bandsmen do not wear "regulation doublets", what do they wear?. . .QUOTE]

Khaki shirts?

I bow before your superior knowledge of North American pipe band sartorial elegance.

Even if they aren't all in step....

[slohairt]

Sean, as one Irirsh man to another, I'm going to have to disagree with you, just a tad, over the use of "regulation" vs "standard" when describing doublets. In my admittedly far from complete collection of scottish outfitters catalogues (1910 up through the mid 50s) a gentleman's evening doublet is repeatedly referred to as a standard doublet. In Renton's catalogue (c.1950 but definately post-WWII) they list a bandsman's jacket as "our regulation doublet" and the illustration shows a typical standing collar, button up the front, band jacket. Similar to, but different than, the illustration of a "standard evening doublet" elsewhere in their catalogue. I believe that the term "regulation" comes from the fact the the bandsmans jackets conform in style to the "regulation pattern" of those worn by the army.

Interestingly, it is not until the introduction of the Prince Charlie Coatee that most outfitters begin to call their doublets "standard" as in "our standard doublet", probably to give a boost to the sales of the then new (and certinly cheaper to make) PCC. Early catalogues simply refer to a doublet or evening doublet.

It would be intersting to know when and how the word "regulation" came to be applied to the civilian doublet. I suspect it may be a carry over from the Lord Chamberlain's rules for dress worn at Court (a doublet is required for Scottish levee dress) but that is pure speculation on my part.

Now if bandsmen do not wear "regulation doublets", what do they wear?

With best regards from a Wicklow man--

It would be hard to say when any change in terminology occurred. Virtually every website or catalogue today refers to what I call the Regulation Doublet (or coatee) as the Regulation Doublet. The other variety, worn by bandsmen seem to be called a "Piper's Doublet" these days.

Le gach dhea-mhéin as fear Dhúin na nGall go fear Chill Mhantáin!

[Phil]

It would be hard to say when any change in terminology occurred. Virtually every website or catalogue today refers to what I call the Regulation Doublet (or coatee) as the Regulation Doublet. The other variety, worn by bandsmen seem to be called a "Piper's Doublet" these days.

Le gach dhea-mhéin as fear Dhúin na nGall go fear Chill Mhantáin!

It seems virtually every supplier has their own name. Stewart Christie here in Edinburgh illustrate this as a dress doublet (note the belts worn over it and it is worn with a jabot and red waistcoat. They say the waistcoat can also be tartan to match the kilt or velvet or cloth to match the doublet). I think the "regulation" name probably came about because this was the required dress for Court (royal) functions and was called levee dress -

[Phil]

Most higlandwear outlets will be able to supply a Montrose doublet. They are not usually made to measure nowadays. I outgrew mine a few years ago (after I stopped smoking) but you can really sweat off the pounds in one and they don't look good unbuttoned. I keep saying this but a Sheriffmuir is a smart, formal jacket which is also open so helps keep the temperature down. These Montrose doublets date from the old days before central heating when you needed all the insulation you could get!

My Montrose (taking a deep breath)



and my Sheriffmuir a bit more relaxed



You can wear a waistcoat (vest) with it too

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I'm impressed! Waistcoat cut on the bias and the buttons properly spaced-- most elegant!

[Graywolf]

Looking good thanx for the information.

[Dukeof Kircaldy]

I was extremely lucky when I found my montrose doublet on eBay and it fit. As everyone points out, they are pretty much bespoke (tailor made). And, they are indeed close fitting. I was afraid the thing would be too short, but I had good contact with the seller. So, I knew it would be sized pretty close to what I would get.

The Sherrifmuir is the best bet if you are looking for a very formal doublet and don't want to spend money. As previous poster pointed out, J. Higgins has them for a good price.

Of course, we are talking extremely formal clothing. I would say more white tie (i.e., Fred Astair tailcoat) than black tie. Most people can get away with a prince charlie coat or a black argyll jacket.

In fact, the black argyll jacket is the most versatile of all in my opinion, if you have to get just one jacket.

[thescot]

I'd probably pop for the Sherridmuir if I had it to do over for the fact of the heat. The Montrose will be very warm in the US unless you're outside in the winter.

And the Sherrifmuir has the added advantage of allowing for more "growth" in the girth. Nothing worse than spending hundreds on a doublet you can't wear. I'm not much on the tartan vest, personally, but I do like the jacket.