Buckle brogues yes, Ghillie no: Come & have a go if you think you are 'ard enough

**The Barry** · 2nd February 09, 09:18 AM

I hate to stir the pot, but....

I really don't like the look of buckle brougues. Maybe they remind me of the "mary janes", I'm not really sure. I've seen enough photos (old and new, Scotland and elsewhere) that allow me to feel comfortable in ghillies with tartan hose.

**Jack Daw** · 2nd February 09, 09:54 AM

I have a pair of buckle shoes in 18th C style by Fugawee. They are VERY comfortable, but I would think they would not be appropriate for strictly formal wear (jabot, fly plaid, etc). I thought such shoes were supposed to be in patent leather. Please advise, those in the know.

**Phil** · 2nd February 09, 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by Jack Daw

I have a pair of buckle shoes in 18th C style by Fugawee. They are VERY comfortable, but I would think they would not be appropriate for strictly formal wear (jabot, fly plaid, etc). I thought such shoes were supposed to be in patent leather. Please advise, those in the know.

As long as you have them clean and polished to a good shine they should be perfect. Patent just saves you the trouble.

**DWFII** · 2nd February 09, 10:18 AM

Originally Posted by Jack Daw

I have a pair of buckle shoes in 18th C style by Fugawee. They are VERY comfortable, but I would think they would not be appropriate for strictly formal wear (jabot, fly plaid, etc). I thought such shoes were supposed to be in patent leather. Please advise, those in the know.

I agree...as long as they are polished and clean they present a very formal look. In the illustrations just posted above most of the buckle shoes depicted are in the 18c. style (and making allowance for "artistic license" ) it appears that the "mary jane style" shown in the last set are not brogues at all (if broguing defines a brogue).

The Fugawees may not be polishable, however. They purport to be historical replicas and historically those kind of shoes would have been made from a leather that became memorialized as "wax calf"--where the smooth or grainside was turned in (the shoes were not lined) and the rough or fleshside was stufffed and waxed with lanolin and lampblack.

The true vintage shoes (or at least boots made from that leather) took a great shine...almost patent in nature. But the process for producing wax calf and firms utilizing it disappeared some decades ago...maybe in the 1950's (?)...so what is being done today (in an attempt to reproduce the look) doesn't usually have a surface that is polishable.

**Good Egg** · 2nd February 09, 10:05 AM

The crenelated hose with the skein dhub worn tucked into the tape is interesting.

(Patent leather is on my list of things I 'hate')

**Good Egg** · 3rd February 09, 10:46 AM

Hamish, yes I like that although I would prefer it with a more brogue or 'wing tip' style of shoe.

You can also get monk shoes. What would you think of this (in black). I will be tempted if my issue brogues ever wear out:

**Tim Little** · 3rd February 09, 11:48 AM

Personally I have no problem with Ghille Brogues, though I would be inclined to only wear them with a PC.

I appreciate that "buckle brogues"/"mary janes"/etc. are considered traditional formal footwear, but they're not quite to my taste for my own wear. (The same applies for glengarrys, balmorals, Montrose doublets, and the like.)

Originally Posted by Courtmount

What would you think of this (in black). I will be tempted if my issue brogues ever wear out:

I do like "monk" shoes, however, and think they shoes above would be just fine for daywear. I wouldn't have a problem with a black pair being worn in lieu of ghillie brogues or any of the aforementioned "buckle" shoes, but I appreciate that this might not be deemed proper by some. I suppose it depends on the level of formality. ("Close, but no cigar?")

I've been considering the following myself, in fact -- the first to be worn with my Braemar, perhaps; the second for more casual wear:

**pastorsteve** · 3rd February 09, 11:52 AM

I agree. The first ones are dress and the second ones are more daily wear.

**Leprechaun 91** · 3rd February 09, 06:31 PM

Originally Posted by Tim Little

Personally I have no problem with Ghille Brogues, though I would be inclined to only wear them with a PC.

I appreciate that "buckle brogues"/"mary janes"/etc. are considered traditional formal footwear, but they're not quite to my taste for my own wear. (The same applies for glengarrys, balmorals, Montrose doublets, and the like.)

I do like "monk" shoes, however, and think they shoes above would be just fine for daywear. I wouldn't have a problem with a black pair being worn in lieu of ghillie brogues or any of the aforementioned "buckle" shoes, but I appreciate that this might not be deemed proper by some. I suppose it depends on the level of formality. ("Close, but no cigar?")

I've been considering the following myself, in fact -- the first to be worn with my Braemar, perhaps; the second for more casual wear:

I own the bottom pair and wear them every week at work. they are quite comfortable and dress up well when I wear a suit. I have not try them with my kilts though. I think they are a little ...bulky? for my tastes.

**Hamish** · 3rd February 09, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by Courtmount

Hamish, yes I like that although I would prefer it with a more brogue or 'wing tip' style of shoe.

You can also get monk shoes. What would you think of this (in black). I will be tempted if my issue brogues ever wear out:

Hmmm. I can see where you are coming from CM, but I don't think those are quite 'me'. Maybe I know a few too many chaps who wear that style as a t-----r shoe.

For less formal occasions, I normally wear ordinary black (or brown), short-laced, brogues.

Take care,
Ham.