On the Fence

[Mike M.]

Concur on the USA Kilts semi-traditional. Great-looking kilt at a price that won't break the bank.

[SeumasA]

One of the things that we need to remember is that "8 yards" is a style, not a measurement. Such a kilt on a heavy man will have a lot more cloth than on a skinny fellow, but is still considered to be an "8 yard kilt" because of the type of pleating that go into it. A "5 yard" kilt merely means that the pleats are wider and fewer in number.

True, but, at least for me, there is a considerable difference in the amount of material used in the two--at least for somebody my size. I find the five yard kilt to be a lot more comfortable.
And I second the vote for John at Keltoi. He does great work.

[Father Bill]

Father Bill, thanks for the tip. I checked Keltoi's site and found their Knife-Pleated Standard Kilt, pleated to the stripe, averaging 10-15 pleats. Is this the number of pleats I should be looking for?
Also, being hand-stitched vice machine sewn makes it very attractive for formal attire although it's a 5-yarder.

You don't request a number of pleats; rather, you talk it through with your kiltmaker who will make suggestions based on the thoughts you have in mind. I am very sure that in John's case at least, if you just sent him the URL for this thread, he'd come back in a few days with some options that you'd like. He doesn't always respond instantly to E-mails, but when he gets to you, it's worth it. He's just too busy putting needles through cloth.

There are a lot of factors in play here. Some weavers only make certain tartans in certain weights, so the sett will vary in size, and this will also contribute to the calculations of pleating and yardage.

Work with your kiltmaker. It takes some time, but just think what you're deliberating on together!

The two kilts in my pictures are both from John and he's working on another special project for me that . . . You'll all see in due course.



My red Sinclair, you can see in my XMarks album. I'm having trouble uploading it from my iPad here, but you can see the Hunting sett here. Incidentally, he also made my jabot and supplied the rest of my kit.

[230Ball]

Outstanding, Father Bill! I will contact John and keep you posted!

[Dughlas mor]

230Ball, using Keltoi`s line of kilts as an example, regardless of your size, you can order a standard or a deluxe kilt. Whether you are large or small, the deluxe will have more and deeper pleats than the standard. Of course it will be heavier, and in my opinion, it will look better. Since you are a smaller guy, if you ordered the standard, it would probably have closer to ten pleats, the deluxe closer to twenty.

[MacGumerait]

230Ball ,

I can certainly understand being on the fence when buying your first kilt . I think you are wise to have put forth your questions to the members here on this forum . There are many good folk here with a wide variety of kilt wearing experience , each one with very good viewpoints . There are also many good vendors and kilt makers here , I don't think you can wrong with any of them .

I have been kilted for over 40 yrs and have always preferred the traditional 8 yd kilts . However , 3 yrs ago I did purchase a 5 yd kilt . It does fit nicely and is lighter in weight and should be a very good kilt for a first time purchase especially if you are trying to be cost conscious with a new venture .

The difference between the 5 yd versus 8 yd is of course the amount of fabric which in turn means less weight . As others have mentioned , it also means larger pleats and less pleats due to less fabric .

Personally speaking , I have always found a " made to measure " 8 yd kilt to be my favorite and my " go to " kilt even in warm weather . I like the feel of it , the hang and swing / swish of the pleats .

You and I are about the same size . Like yourself , I am 5'11" although I weigh a little more at 170 lbs . Given our size , I haven't found that an 8 yd kilt to be to warm , even in the heat of Southern Indiana with summer temps of high 70's to lower 90's .

In regards to your thoughts about pleating to the sett or to the stripe , I like both , although I really like pleating to the stripe or to the block . Pleating to the block has a similar look as to the stripe .

Pleating choices depend on the tartan that you choose , the kilt type - 5 yd versus 8 yd and one's body size . All three play a part in what one can or cannot do with pleating .

Once again , given that we are about the same size , I will offer you some pics of 2 of my 8 yd kilts . One pleated to the sett and one pleated to the block . Both are from XMarks vendors / kilt makers .

Montgomery Blue Green Modern pleated to the sett , 32 pleats , apprx 1/2 " wide pleats .






Montgomery Blue Modern pleated to the block , 28 pleats , apprx 5/8 " wide pleats . Note that when pleating to the block it leaves a " red " reveal when the pleats swish while walking as illustrated on the left of the pleats picture .






I hope this helps .... rather than confuse .

Best regards , Mike

[230Ball]

Excellent, MacGumerait! Your photos close some visual gaps in my brain!

[MacGumerait]

230Ball ,

I forgot to mention that some tartans do not lend themselves well to being pleated to the stripe or to the block . Therefore the tartan you select will start to dictate the pleating options whether you go with a 5 yd or an 8 yd .

For example , the Montgomery Blue Green ( first pic ) is such a simple sett with only two colors that pleating to the sett was more or less the obvious choice .

In the last two pics , Montgomery Blue , could have been pleated to the sett , to the red stripe or to the blue block . The blue block is the pleating I chose . Pleating to the red stripe would have made the back of the kilt look extremely red . It all starts with the tartan that you choose .

When pleating to the block , there is the risk of having what is sometimes called the " lawn chair " effect . This is the effect of having only horizontal lines across the back . However , this " lawn chair " effect is sometimes not a big issue depending on the tartan and one's body size .

Once again , I hope this helps rather than confuse .

Cheers , Mike

[Roderick Powell]

Thanks, Gents! This is proving to be a very helpful thread for me!

You might find a difference in the warmth of a five yard against an eight yard. A Scotsman advised me that an eight yard
sixteen oz is recognised as real warmth for every day outdoor wear in winter in Scotland with an over jacket on top of the
Argyll Jacket. You might find an 8yd sixteen oz is too warm for your type of wear. I am afraid I cannot answer that one.
I am getting an eight yard sixteen oz to wear outdoors all day, in winter but it might be too warm to wear indoors for dancing.
Roderick

[Father Bill]

I rather think not; that's what most dancers wear indoors and indoors temperatures don't vary much from Scotland to anywhere else. Don't frget he air-conditioner effect as it swishes around!