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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by azwildcat96 View Post
    As has been pointed out by Father Bill, the pleating styles can vary. Both of the two kilts that I referenced are 16 oz wool material from the same weaver. The two differences between them are the yardage (one is 5 yards of material and the other is 8 yards), and the pleating style. The 5 yard kilt, while still a heavy wool material is lighter and feels so noticably, and the box pleats can have a cooling effect similar to a bellows, in that air is moved through expansion and contraction of the pleats as you walk or move. Subtle, but still noticable.
    I never thought to recommend the box pleats; I have a 16 oz box from John at Keltoi, and it's probably my favourite to date.

    Being female, you could also very easily specify to your kiltmaker that you want to wear it as a skirt at your hips rather than at your natural waist, thus eliminating the heat-around-the-belly problem. Still thinking this through.
    Rev'd Father Bill White: Mostly retired Parish Priest & former Elementary Headmaster. Lover of God, dogs, most people, joy, tradition, humour & clarity. Legion Padre, theologian, teacher, philosopher, linguist, encourager of hearts & souls & a firm believer in dignity, decency, & duty. A proud Canadian Sinclair.

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  3. #32
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    My answer to the original question is "No" - it's never too hot. I've worn my 8 yard PV and my ex-military 8 yard extremely heavy (the kiltmaker who did an alteration for me says it might be blanket weave) in temperatures up to the high 30s Celsius and been quite comfortable - certainly more so than denim jeans! True, they do get a bit warm around the waist and if it's very humid, perspiration can be a problem. The PV kilt is better in those conditions.

    Angela, the PV kilt, from Heritage of Scotland, is described as "16 oz", patently it isn't but the feel (thickness) and swing of the material is similar to a 16 oz wool, it just doesn't hold the pleats quite so well. As so many people have said, I'm sure Rocky would make you the perfect kilt for your requirements but then so would most of the kiltmakers here. If you are within travelling distance, a visit would be highly recommended (I would have a small problem there, the Pacific ocean!).
    Regards, Sav.

    "The Sun Never Sets on X-Marks!"

  4. #33
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    I have seen many drawings illustrating some of the ways to pleat a kilt.

    I have never seen anyone actually pleat up a length of fabric to show the different ways as it would actually be.

    I had some time so I took a leftover length of X Marks Tartan is did some samples for you.

    Each of these examples use the exact same length of fabric. I hope this gives a better representation than a drawing.

    Please note that I put a white line right on the edge. This was to make the pleats show up a bit better. I also doubled the fabric to give more thickness for this example.



    Here are knife pleats to the Sett.



    And knife pleats to the White Stripe.



    Notice that pleating to the sett gives a slightly deeper pleat.





    Here are normal box pleats. (to the yellow stripe)



    This is the pleating style we use for a 4 yard box pleat kilt. (Far fewer layers of fabric than the knife pleats above)

    And here are double box pleats.



    Notice that the part of the pleat you see is much the same. However I used two Setts per pleat so this would give an 8 yard box pleated kilt.





    And finally a Military box pleat. (again to the white stripe so you can compare this to the knife pleats above.)



    I have an Royal Regt. of Scotland kilt in Black Watch here in the shop and this is exactly how this kilt is pleated.

    I hope these examples help some of our members visualize all these terms we use and help them make a decision on their own kilts.

    Please ignore the basting. I did this over a few days and did not want to loose my work so stitched everything down. I think it still looks good enough to give you an idea.
    Last edited by Steve Ashton; 8th December 13 at 05:07 PM.
    Steve Ashton
    Forum Owner

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  6. #34
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    The pictures are very helpful, Steve. Thanks!
    Allen Sinclair, FSA Scot
    Eastern Region Vice President
    North Carolina Commissioner
    Clan Sinclair Association (USA)

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  8. #35
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    Excellent Steve, thank you for taking the time to produce these informative examples
    Shoot straight you bastards. Don't make a mess of it. Harry (Breaker) Harbord Morant - Bushveldt Carbineers

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  10. #36
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    Just a quick two cents to the OP:

    I have a number of kilts in both medium and heavy weights. I wear them all year. Here in the northwest, the temps can top 90F for weeks at a time in the summer, and the kilt is a great way to keep cool. (Wool breathes) I'd rather be wearing 16oz tartan than denim when the mercury rises! Nothing is worse than sweat-soaked denim, IMHO.

    As for shorts under: I always wear shorts when piping with the band. It guarantees modesty when I'm concentrating on playing. Under Armour makes some great options.

    BTW

    "Far an taine ‘n abhainn, ‘s ann as mò a fuaim."
    Where the stream is shallowest, it is noisiest.

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  12. #37
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    Thank u Father Bill ! Will keep all this in mind, I wear my cloths at my waiste, I use to wear Z Caveriechies which pants went slightly above the navel, I loved those pants every body looked good in them, I measured my self so kilts will lay by my navel my personal like, I don't like things at my hips.... I believe my kilts are knife pleats by going by Steves Ashton pictures.. I again thank u .. I am learning alot . Its amazing you can feel the difference with the weight holding them up, but feel the same as a light weight kilt.

  13. #38
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    Thank you for the welcome flyrod6057,.. I appreciate your help too, and I hear ya on keeping cool , I thank u

  14. #39
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    Thank u very much Steve Ashton, I deeply appreciate your pictures, I'm almost positive that my kilts are knife pleated..Thank you again

  15. #40
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    Yes, knife pleat is the usual pleating, so that makes sense. Angie, when you talk about waist with kilts, it's a very different thing from what most people are talking about. Most people put their hands on their hips and say that's their waste. Sorry!

    Bend to the side, and you'll find that there's a spot where the flesh bends over, a few inches above the hips. THAT's actually your waste, and it's what kilties are talking about.

    You'll find pictures here in the forum of kilties with their kilts well over their bellies. Kilts are normally cut much higher than jeans. Go to Steve's Freedom Kilts site (link at the top of the page) and there's information there since Steve makes kilts both ways depending on the wishes of the customer.

    Strongly suggest that you spend some time here wandering around the forum and getting those differences clearly in mind before you lay down cash - save some that way!
    Rev'd Father Bill White: Mostly retired Parish Priest & former Elementary Headmaster. Lover of God, dogs, most people, joy, tradition, humour & clarity. Legion Padre, theologian, teacher, philosopher, linguist, encourager of hearts & souls & a firm believer in dignity, decency, & duty. A proud Canadian Sinclair.

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