Wool Quality

[Galant]

Not wanting to hijack the PV quality thread, I've opened up this one.

I don't own a PV kilt. I was looking at one since $300+ for a kilt (especially my first) was a bit expensive, however, in the end I managed to get a second-hand 'tank' in my size, in excellent condition, for $200. I also picked up a discounted first generation UK Survival. If I'm going to be in a potentially dirty or hazardous situation I'll wear the UK otherwise I'm happy to wear my 'tank' often. My thinking, and it may well be ignorant or naive, is that wool kilts were worn historically for all kinds of activities and daily life, and that they lasted a long time. So it is I have such faith in my tank and am not scared to wear it.

Am I wrong?

[beerbecue]

I am curious about this sort of thing, too.

I was told by a local seamstress that washing wool is no big deal - its the drying that'll git ya....

[Alan H]

This is a GREAT question and I am looking forward to the answers from folks who know.

I'm a terminal klutz (just dumped half a can of cream soda on myself last night, for example) and I'd die if I dumped coffee on a beautiful wool kilt. My lighter-colored pants last me a year or less becaue I invariably wreck them with a coffee spill. Coffee is my solvent of choice, though other might prefer red wine. Bicycle grease is a close #2, though I doubt I'd be riding a bicycle much in a kilt.

[Riverkilt]

Hmm, good questions Galant.

So far I've kept my $410 hand sewn traditional kilt from Kathy's Kilts well protected in my closet, garmet bag etc.

Only take it out for Highland Games or fancy parties.

Its so dusty and sandy up here in the canyonlands it just doesn't seem a good idea to wear it out and about daily.

Ron

[GMan]

Not being a textile expert, doesn't wool have breathability? Wouldn't that be a way of cleaning itself? Can stains be washed out without harming the fabric? Sorry I can't answer your question Galant, but it has given me more of my own. I do not wear my wool as often as the others, but it still looks pretty crisp and clean after several years.

[Thistle Stop]

Good wool is very durable, so with 'normal' wear it will last a long time. The biggest threat is moths!

You shouldn't have to clean a kilt very often, especially if you spot-clean any spills as soon as possible. Wearing underwear also helps keep it clean! But of course, that's a personal choice.

A good way to clean a lightly-soiled kilt is with a professional-type steamer, plus spot-cleaning of any stains before steaming. The method of spot-cleaning depends upon the spot. When steaming, use pins or clothespins to hold the pleats in place to maintain the crisp pleating. You may need to press pleats on a flat surface with a steam iron and pressing cloth, too.

If you have a kilt made, ask the kiltmaker to send you any scraps that may be left over (it can be a meter or more if you bought a special-weave tartan; otherwise, probably not very much at all). Save them to use for testing cleaning products. You can also test on the inside apron, if you have no scraps to experiment on, but be very careful!

Here's what Matt says in the Scottish Tartans Museum web site, about hand-washing a kilt:

CLEANING: Most say to dry clean your kilt only, and this is certainly a safe bet. However, if you wish to wash your kilt yourself, here is the recommended method. Spot the cloth by using undiluted Woolite (or equivalent) on the especially soiled areas and rub thoroughly. Fill your bathtub with 6 inches of cold water and 12 capfuls of Woolite. Swish your kilt around in the water, soaking the entire garment. Fold the kilt as it is worn, then lay it front down in the soapy water. Soak for an hour. Then hold it over the tub letting the dirty water drain off. Now hang your kilt on the clothesline and soak with a garden hose to rinse. Take care to make sure all soap is removed, especially between the pleats. Let it drip dry, out of direct sunlight. Your pleats should not lose all of their press, but you may repress with a steam iron and a pressing cloth.

Don't wash a woollen kilt in hot water, nor in an automatic washer, nor dry it in an automatic clothes dryer.

I think it's great to wear your woollen kilt other than for formal occasions. I believe you'll find that with reasonable care, it will give excellent service and outlast all your other clothes.

[Thistle Stop]

Some advice for cleaning wool uphostery and carpets, from the Woolmark brand, which can also apply to kilts and other woollen garments:

Hints for Successful Stain Removal:

Speed is your best guarantee of success. Nine out of ten spots will vanish if they are treated immediately.

Always keep a selection of the necessary cleaning materials in one place where you can get them quickly in the event of a spill. Cleaning essentials include an approved non-alkaline wool detergent, white vinegar, household dry cleaning fluids (see below), a small piece of sponge (make sure it’s a neutral colour), clean absorbent cloths and white paper towelling or tissues.

Know the name and telephone number of a reputable professional cleaner.

When attempting to remove stains always ensure that the carpet, fabric or bedding is dry before proceeding to the next step in the treatment.

1. Firstly, remove the source of the stain using one of the following methods:

(a) Blot up liquids by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.
(b) Scoop up solids with a knife or spoon.
(c) Brush burn or scorch marks from surface.

2. Take a small piece of sponge or clean white cloth and apply the 1st treatment from the Stain Removal Chart using a small amount of the cleansing agent at a time. With blotting or dabbing motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading. Do not over-wet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the fabric. Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and distort the surface texture.

3. If the cleansing agent has removed the stain, commence with procedures 5 to 9.

4. Should the stain still be apparent after the 1st treatment (and further treatments are recommended on the stain removal directions, below) remove excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or absorbent cloths and apply the next treatment from the chart using the procedures outlined in 2 and 3 above. Continue with recommended treatments, blotting up moisture between each new cleansing agent, until stain is removed. Call a professional cleaner if stain has failed to respond to any of the relevant treatments. Haphazard attempts at spot removal can cause permanent setting, surface distortion, matting and loss of colour.

5. Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

6. Rinse by applying clear tepid water using a small piece of sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge to the affected area. DO NOT RUB.

7. Remove excess moisture as outlined in procedure 5.

8. Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Beer; Beetroot; Bleach; Egg; Excrement; Ice-cream; Mustard; Urine; Vomit; White-wine

Blot up the spill by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths. Soak a small piece of cloth in a solution of one teaspoon of approved wool detergent (e.g. Softly, Woolite) with one teaspoon of white vinegar and one litre of warm water.

Using a small amount of the solution at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading. Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the carpet, fabric or bedding.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

This step may need to be repeated and is dependant on the nature of the stain and the amount of staining present. Continue treatment until stain is removed, always remembering to remove excess moisture from your carpet, fabric or bedding prior to the next treatment.

Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Rinse by applying clear tepid water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Once again, remove excess moisture. Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle. When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Blood

Blot up the spill by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths. Soak a small piece of cloth in cold water.

Using a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading. Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the carpet, fabric or bedding.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

If the cold water fails to remove the blood, then gently apply a solution of dye stripper - diluted 1 part to 50 parts cold water - using a dabbing or blotting motion, again working inwards from the edge of the stain.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE DYE STRIPPER SOLUTION ON DARK SHADES OR PATTERNED FABRIC, CARPET OR BEDDING

Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Rinse by applying clear tepid water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub. Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Ball-point ink

Soak a small piece of cloth in methylated spirits.

ENSURE THAT NO FLAME OR LIGHTED CIGARETTE IS NEAR AND USE IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA.

Using a small amount at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading.

Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the carpet, fabric or bedding.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

This step may need to be repeated and is dependant on the nature of the stain and the amount of staining present. Continue treatment until stain is removed, always remembering to remove excess moisture from your carpet, fabric or bedding prior to the next treatment.

Once the methylated spirits has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Now soak a small piece of cloth in a solution of one teaspoon of approved wool detergent (e.g. Softly, Woolite) with one teaspoon of white vinegar and one litre of warm water.

Using a small amount of the solution at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain.

Blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Rinse by applying clear tepid water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Burn or scorch marks

Brush the burn or scorch marks from the surface with a stiff brush. Soak a small piece of cloth in Hydrogen Peroxide (20 vol) diluted 1 part to 10 parts of cold water. Using a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading.

Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the wool carpet or fabric.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE SOLUTION ON DARK SHADES OR PATTERNED FABRIC, CARPET OR BEDDING. CALL A PROFESSIONAL CLEANER AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Rinse by applying clear tepid water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the affected area.

Do not rub. Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Butter; Cooking oils; Crayon/colour marker; Cream; Furniture polish; Grease; Lipstick; Metal polish; Oil; Rust; Salad dressing; Shoe polish

Scoop off as much of the stain as you can with a knife or spoon. Soak a small piece of cloth in dry-cleaning fluid, lighter fuel or mineral turpentine.

CAUTION: ENSURE THAT NO FLAME OR LIGHTED CIGARETTE IS NEAR AND USE IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA.

Using a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading. Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the carpet, fabric or bedding.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Now soak a small piece of cloth in a solution of one teaspoon of approved wool detergent (e.g. Softly, Woolite) with one teaspoon of white vinegar and one litre of warm water. Using a small amount of the solution at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain. Then blot up excess moisture from the treated area.

In the case of rust, soak a small piece of cloth in a weak solution of white vinegar or lemon juice mixed with cold water. Using a small amount of the solution at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain. Then blot up excess moisture from the treated area.

Rinse by applying clear, cold water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Candle wax

Scoop off as much of the wax as you can with a knife or spoon. Soak a small piece of cloth in an equal mixture of mineral turpentine and dry-cleaning fluid.

CAUTION: ENSURE THAT NO FLAME OR LIGHTED CIGARETTE IS NEAR AND USE IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA.

Using a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading. Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the wool carpet or fabric.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Rinse by applying clear, cold water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Chocolate

Scoop off as much of the stain as you can with a knife or spoon. Soak a small piece of cloth in a solution of one teaspoon of approved wool detergent (e.g. Softly, Woolite) with one teaspoon of white vinegar and one litre of warm water. Using a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading.

Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the carpet, fabric or bedding.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product. Remove excess moisture from the treated area by blotting with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Now soak a small piece of cloth in dry-cleaning fluid, lighter fuel or mineral turpentine.

CAUTION: ENSURE THAT NO FLAME OR LIGHTED CIGARETTE IS NEAR AND USE IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA.

Using a small amount of the solution at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain. Then blot up excess moisture from the treated area.

Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture.

Rinse by applying clear cold water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Cocoa; Coffee - black or white; Tea - black or white; Water-based paint

Scoop off as much of the stain as you can with a knife or spoon or blot up with clean rags. Soak a small piece of cloth in dry-cleaning fluid, lighter fuel or mineral turpentine.

CAUTION: ENSURE THAT NO FLAME OR LIGHTED CIGARETTE IS NEAR AND USE IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA.

Using a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading.

Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the carpet, fabric or bedding.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

Blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Rinse by applying clear, cold water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Now soak a small piece of cloth in a solution of one teaspoon of approved wool detergent (e.g. Softly, Woolite) with one teaspoon of white vinegar and one litre of warm water.

Using a small amount of the solution at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain. Then blot up excess moisture from the treated area.

Rinse again with clean, cold water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean, white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

Stain Removal Guide for:

Fruit juice; Gravy/sauce

Blot up the spill by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths. Soak a small piece of cloth in warm - not hot - water. With a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading.

Do not overwet - excessive soaking may cause rings on the surface, spreading the stain further and may also damage the carpet, fabric or bedding.

Do not rub - rubbing will spread the stain over a larger area and may distort the surface texture of the wool product.

Once the water has removed most of the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Now soak a small piece of cloth in a solution of one teaspoon of approved wool detergent (e.g. Softly, Woolite) with one teaspoon of white vinegar and one litre of warm water.

Using a small amount of the solution at a time, and with a dabbing or blotting motion, work inwards from the edge of the stain.

Once the cleansing agent has removed the stain, blot up excess moisture from the treated area by applying pressure with non-coloured paper towels, tissues or dry absorbent cloths.

Rinse by applying clear tepid water using a small piece of non-coloured sponge or clean white cloth, again working inwards from the edge of the treated area.

Do not rub.

Once again, remove excess moisture.

Hasten drying by placing a clean cloth on top of the area and blow dry with a fan or reversed cycle vacuum nozzle.

When your wool product is completely dry, brush gently to restore pile.

IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT THE CORRECT CLEANING PROCEDURES OR IF THE STAIN FAILS TO RESPOND TO THE RECOMMENDED TREATMENT, CALL A PROFESSIONAL CLEANER AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

Please note that while this advice is offered in good faith, no responsibility is accepted for claims arising from the treatments proposed.


My own notes about cleaning agents:

Names for methylated spirits around the world: In the UK, Australia, and New Zealand, it is called methylated spirits. In the US it is called denatured alcohol. In Europe, it may be called spirits, brennspiritus (Germany), alcool a bruler (France), sprit (Norway), spiritus (Netherlands), alcool etilico denaturato (Italy). It is generally available in hardware stores, supermarkets, service stations, and camping/outdoors stores.

I have found that the gel hand sanitiser which is now widely sold in the US, such as Purell, works well in place of methylated spirits. I carry a small bottle of it in my handbag, as well as one in the car, all the time.

Hydrogen Peroxide (20 vol) is a 6% solution. In the US, ordinary pharmaceutical Hydrogen Peroxide, avaliable off the shelf, is a 3% solution, but you can ask the pharmacist [chemist] for a source for the 6% solution. Or, simply use the 3% solution, but dilute it with only half the amount of water to make a cleansing solution per the instructions above.

A benign cleaning agent that is often recommended for a variety of stains is club soda, applied directly to the stain. It has the advantage of being readily available in most restaurants, hotels, etc., and you can keep a bottle in your car for quick treatment of stains.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Wow, Cyndi, thanks for all those stain removal tips! I need to print them out and post them up by my laundry!

Wool is awesome, and there is no better cloth under the sun for kilts, if you ask me.

1. It is traditional. Kilts have, so far as we know, always been made of wool.
2. It is breathable, durable, and excellent for all weather. Prior to the advent of synthetic alternatives, wool was the cloth of choice for outdoor activities. It breathes. It is fairly water proof. And (especially the twill weave) last forever.
3. My friend Bob Martin (from whom I got the advice on how to clean your kilt that Cyndi quoted) has worn a kilt every day, for all occasions, for nearly 30 years. He mows his lawn in a kilt. He changes the oil in his car in a kilt, etc. He also is an artist, and paints with oil paints in his kilt. In other words, he has gotten his kilts dirty. One thing is that if you are going to wear the kilt to this extent, you probably have more than one -- so keep one reserved, neat and clean, for those formal occasions. But really, with Cyndi's spot cleaning advice, washing the kilt yourself, as I described, and perhaps the occasional dry cleaning, you won't have much to worry about.
4. We have kilts in our museum that are 200 years old. There is nothing wrong with the wool. I could take them out of the cases and wear them today if I wanted to. Some of the stitching could perhaps stand to be reenforced (if one were to actually wear such historic artifacts, that is). But there is nothing wrong with the wool. In my career I have handled many kilts from people that were a generation old or more. What needs to be replaced on these kilts, if anything, is the leather from the straps. I rarely, if ever, have seen damage in the cloth itself, and that has been from moths.

Now there is wool and there is wool. In another thread someone said something like, "If 12 oz wool is ok for a kilt, why not 12 oz poly-vis?" Well, the two don't equate. Heck, I've seen 12 oz wool from one mill and it didn't compare with 12 oz wool from another. There is more to the fabric quality than how much it weighs. There is the type of wool used. There is the way it is spun. There is the way it is woven. So all this is to say that there are variables, even in wool. I always recommend one get the heaviest weight availble in your tartan that you can afford, and I stick with that advice. Especially now, as a kilt maker with experience making kilts from various weights.

I was just telling someone yesterday how much I enjoy making a kilt out of a good, solid, 16 oz worsted wool. The fabric just is easier to work with. And it is much easier for me to make it into a great looking kilt. It feels better when you wear it. It will keep pleats sharper and longer. And it will last forever.

Aye,
Matt

[Galant]

Perhaps it might be an idea to take that stain removal post, copy it and then sticky it somewhere on the forums?

So then, who here wears there wool kilt(s) on a regular basis and not just for formal events?

[Doc Hudson]

I copied Matt and Cyndi's posts and saved them to my hard-drive.

Thanks for the wealth of information!