getting there slowly.

**Andrew Green** · 27th October 06, 09:09 AM

Well, after a few minutes of figuring out how to get a pen to ride easily attached (somewhat) to a piece of string, and a few minutes with a jigsaw, I now have two usable cores to make targes with.

I need to rasp/sand them to a more uniform shape, as I made sure that I always cut outside my trace line by a little bit. I would rather have cut a bit wide, and need to correct it a little at a time by hand, than to run the risk of cutting too shallow ya know?

More as this develops... I haven't picked up leather or anything yet, as my funds are going to be relatively low. So I'll bide my time, smooth out the cores... search for something suitable as a backing, and see if I can hunt down thick grade leather. It isn't that I don't wanna cough out the money to get it, but I would rather get it for less than more...and if that means I have to take care of some "hassles" on my own to get it prepped and ready, oh well.

Still looking for something to use as a boss, or a packet or larger brass tacks. I think I could do a decent design between a few larger upholstery nails, and the smaller ones that I already have.

*freakin' typos...

**Joe Gondek** · 27th October 06, 10:55 AM

The leather covering on the front doesn't have to be too heavy
5-6 0z cowhide works great
real heavy stuff 8-10oz or heavier will be hard to bend over the back

**Andrew Green** · 27th October 06, 11:13 AM

One of the guys I talked to used 11oz (part of the reason the price is higher I am sure). I say good, thick, armour grade leather would be the best... but I am not sure how heavy armour grade leather is?!

**bubba** · 27th October 06, 12:51 PM

Rawhide might be the way to go.

**Joe Gondek** · 27th October 06, 01:30 PM

armour grade leather is 12-15 oz

**MacWage** · 27th October 06, 06:40 PM

Leather thickness is largely dependant on the function of the targe:

Sheer show (Wall of corner)-> thin leather (easier to work with)

Minor "reenactment" type things->a tad thicker is better, as it takes more abuse

For major "reenactment" combat environments-> I'd use heaver leather still, as it takes being hit by either a fake or real (for the most SERIOUS of them) sword . . .

I think I'd go for 1 or 2 for me, as it serves my purposes, YOURS may vary

**Andrew Green** · 30th October 06, 06:41 PM

I'm one of those guys who doesn't want the look without the function. So... the thicker grade leather would be better.
On a positive side, I found some really nice ruby coloured felt for backing. I had read somewhere that some of the more intrepid highlanders/Jacobites used redcoat pieces to pad the back... dunno if it is true or not, but should look good enough. I also picked up more brass upholstery nailes/studs/tacks (whatever you want to call them). Round headed... so I can change up the design for the face a bit. I have enough felt to do at least 4 layers on the back. Should work ok.

**haukehaien** · 17th November 06, 01:33 PM

Just got an email from Tandy with their weekly specials, and they now have a targe plan and tooling pattern for download from their website.

I may get motivated and try it out ...