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  1. #1
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    Taxidermy basics, for Mask sporran making?

    I just got the skunk skin for my masked skunk sporran. I am getting the head form and eyes tomorrow.

    Now, HOW ON EARTH:confused: do I work with the leather/fur to make the head?

    Do I need to dampen/wet the skin to work with it?
    If so, what about the fur? Blow dry it, like Turpin did?

    Any tips on working with the head and getting it over the form?

    :confused: I've NEVER done ANYTHING like this before OR used anything like these materials. In the past, I only used pre-tanned leather either bought at craft/reenactment supply stores OR recyled from handbags, jackets, or the like.

    HELP!!!!


    Hopefully this will help any other would-be fur sporran makers out there.

  2. #2
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    Is the skin tanned already, or is it green, i.e., stretched and dried?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacMullen View Post
    Is the skin tanned already, or is it green, i.e., stretched and dried?
    It's tanned/Stretched and dried I guess.
    Its this one:
    http://www.chichesterinc.com/Skunk.htm

    This one R-54-WF-G12 is now in a box next to my coach/sofa.
    The tail looks better in person, not that I need it. (I might hang that off a handmade balmoral, in place of ribbons)
    BTW, the 5 inch width is that of the uncut/opened pelt, so it will be 10 once snipped opened.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacWage View Post
    The tail looks better in person, not that I need it.
    Don't discount the tail. On my sporran, I mounted it in place of the edging piece on the right hand side of the mask (right hand as worn) (Q: Is anything worn on your sporran?... A: uh... ) (sorry )

    While it makes the sporran asymmetrical, the tail produces a great "swish" in the front to complement the "swish" of the pleats in the back.
    :rolleyes:

    I've done something similar with raccoon tails, essentially edging the sporran flap. It makes it look like the critter has curled up for a snooze on your lap.

    Let your creative juices flow (the mental ones.)
    "Listen Men.... You are no longer bound down to the unmanly dress of the Lowlander." 1782 Repeal.
    * * * * *
    Lady From Hell vs Neighbor From Hell @ [url]http://way2noisy.blogspot.com[/url]

  5. #5
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    I've been wondering about the same thing MacWage. I don't know how to taxidermy but my son wants to try to make a full mask sporran. I don't think its going to happen this first time around. I'll be watching this thread. Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Here are the basics for mounting a hide on a full form:
    http://www.hidetanning.net/BobcatLynxMounting.html

    Their tutorial on doing a coyote is informative too.

    http://www.hidetanning.net/CoyoteTaxidermy1.html
    Last edited by MacMullen; 30th November 06 at 04:20 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacWage View Post
    Hopefully this will help any other would-be fur sporran makers out there.
    * * * Begin Disclaimer * * *
    I am not a taxidermist; merely an enthused amateur who read considerably before tackling a few of these projects with satisfactory results. The description here is merely my interpretation for a standard rigid sporran body and flap, not for a fancy engineered job with "V"-cut front panel and an integrated mask/flap. Your custom-made sporran will (and should) appear different than any of mine.
    * * * End Disclaimer * * *

    My guess is you are working with an already tanned pelt. The original skinning and field care have a huge effect on the tanning process and the finished pelt. The mask may or may not still have the lips and chin depending on the skinner, and the mask usually comes flat regardless of how the critter was skinned. The pelt will come either open (cut ventrally, or up the stomach) or closed (case skinned). If cased, you will likely need to do the ventral cut to open it up. Stop the cut back three or four inches on the throat and branch the cut into a "Y" or "T" toward the shoulders.

    I, too, considered using the styrofoam head form used by taxidermists, but discarded that idea in favor of simple polyester batting stuffed in a black polyester sock. The forms have no "give" and make the heads stand too tall for my liking.

    At this point I mark and cut the fur needed to cover the body of the sporran, making sure to leave sufficient length of neck fur attached to the head. Cutting fur with scissors, no matter how carefully, cuts hairs that get all over. Better is to mark out the cut on the back and use a razor to make the cut from the back. That way, the hairs on the front stay intact.

    Before starting on the mask, wet it and put it in a plastic bag or container in the refrigerator overnight so it will loosen up. When it dries it will be stiffer than when you received it.

    Things to check on the wet mask:

    Sometimes the eye holes have been cut away too large and need to have the corners sewn shut a little. Check the necessary size by putting the glass eyes behind the holes and see how they look.

    The nose sometimes needs to be rearranged while still pliable.

    For masks without a chin, I stuff the head with the sock and batting, then use nylon upholstery thread and sew a criss-cross pattern to pull in the sides of the snout. Try not to catch the sock with the sewing.

    If the ears need to be shaped differently, each can be sandwiched between two small pieces of bent cardboard held in place with paper clips or clothes pins while they dry.

    Set the head aside for a few days to let everything dry out. The ears will now stay as positioned. The skin will be fairly stiff, but still have some "give". The nose will wrinkle and shrink again, but the results are adequate, unless you really want to pursue real taxidermy techniques.

    Now you can pull the sock and batting out to place the glass eyes. (I fill hollow glass eyes with silicone adhesive to prevent injury if shattered.) Secure them in place with some silicone adhesive and allow the adhesive to set a little. Gently replace the sock and stuff with batting to hold the eyes in place. Check to make sure the eyes haven't turned or pupils rotated wrongly. When the eyes have set, finish stuffing the batting and close the head by sewing the throat skin underneath to the neck skin above.

    Hopefully, you will have a flap of neck skin that reaches over the sporran flap and just to the back of the sporran. Other pieces of fur are usually necessary on either side of the mask to cover the sporran flap. Tack them in place with leather glue, then sew down their edges. The mask's neck fur is affixed in the same manner, but the snout/mouth is secured to the sporran flap with just a couple stitches on either side.

    Good luck. Have fun. Wear your creation proudly. I'm sure the animals so memorialized are satisfied with their contribution to a beautiful world.

    w2f
    "Listen Men.... You are no longer bound down to the unmanly dress of the Lowlander." 1782 Repeal.
    * * * * *
    Lady From Hell vs Neighbor From Hell @ [url]http://way2noisy.blogspot.com[/url]

  8. #8
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    I had considered placing the tip of the tail under the head for decoration.... or would that be a bit much?

    And thank you, W2F, that helps a lot.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by katmills2005 View Post
    I had considered placing the tip of the tail under the head for decoration.... or would that be a bit much?
    Again, make it the way you like... and if you don't like the result, remake it.
    "Listen Men.... You are no longer bound down to the unmanly dress of the Lowlander." 1782 Repeal.
    * * * * *
    Lady From Hell vs Neighbor From Hell @ [url]http://way2noisy.blogspot.com[/url]

  10. #10
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    Well?

    Where stands the project?

    Timid minds want to know.

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