fabric questions

[thomsec]

I'm gathering courage to try a tartan X-Kilt. I'm thinking of purchasing some of Fraser and Kirkbright's wool/poly blend remnant, but I've never worked with wool or a poly/wool blend. Is wool that much easier to work with than a blend? I'm okay with the 11 oz weight, but I don't want to be penny wise but pound foolish.

Finally, how does the workability of PV compare to these? I have several casual USA kilts from Rocky and love them, but I haven't worked with PV either.

Thanks, Charlie

[ChattanCat]

Hi,

I am new to making kilts so all I can tell you is what I have been given. See the attached recommendations on material

[JimB]

I've made kilts both with wool and poly/wool from Fraser and Kirkbright, and they are both a joy to work with. You won't really notice any difference in "working quality". Both had a softness to the feel that was almost luxurious. The wool was Merino which is about as good as wool gets. Never hesitiate to buy from these folks. Their stuff is top notch.

The 16 oz makes a wonderful kilt. The 11 oz stuff is a bit light for me but I make it do just fine with a satin liner. It adds body to what in my opinon would be a very light kilt.
What tartan did you get?

[Tattoo Bradley]

I've not made an "X-Kilt," but I thought Alan made mention that this pattern really wasn't for tartan? Maybe a bit of modification and it could be... I don't know...

[BEEDEE]

I made a modified X-kilt from F&K's Grey Green (in the remmnants section). Only problem I had was figuring out the box pleat size to pleat to sett.

See http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ghlight=beedee

Brian

[way2fractious]

X-kilts were designed for entry-level kiltmaking on cotton-based fabrics. Having seen your exquisitely worked camo X-kilts, it now appears you are progressing upward in your craft (or deeper into the addiction. )

Wool fabric, especially the lighter weights, will probably not meet your expectations if used to construct an X-kilt using the instructions as written. Kilts made from wool generally need the hair canvas underlayment in order to hold their shape and to prevent tension stresses on the pleat stitching and the fabric itself.

Instead of F&K wool tartans, you might go to their U.S. distributors website, The Scottish Weaver, and look at their range of cotton tartans.

w2f

[Barb T]

One additional thing that you might want to consider is how much shaping your kilt will need. If your waist and hip measurements are similar, then the kilt doesn't need much shaping between waist and hips, and PV, poly/wool, and wool will be equally easy to work with. If your kilt needs much shaping (i.e., waist and hips are much different from one another), wool is much better at taking a shape and holding it than anything with poly in it. And cotton doesn't take to shaping at all.

Barb

[Tartan Hiker]

Wool fabric, especially the lighter weights, will probably not meet your expectations if used to construct an X-kilt using the instructions as written. Kilts made from wool generally need the hair canvas underlayment in order to hold their shape and to prevent tension stresses on the pleat stitching and the fabric itself.

But you can get around that problem by adding a strip of cotton canvas (prewashed and shrunk to final size) to the inside of the waistband to prevent the pleat stitches from coming under tension. (Use cotton because it, like the poly/wool fabric, is washable) While you're at it, add a plain cotton liner and a tartan strip to bind the waistband. May as well make the apron wider while you're at it.

Lookey...with just a bit of tweaking your X-Kilt instructions have enabled you to construct a very serviceable casual box pleated kilt!

[Alan H]

I'm gonna make a suggestion. You've made two superb non-tartan X-Kilts now, and man-oh-man do they look good.

I have made a 6-yard knife-pleated kilt from the 10 ounce wool/poly blend light grey tartan that F&K sells and it came out pretty well. It doesn't have quite the substance that a heavier kilt would have, but it's a good summer kilt. If I'd take it apart and re-do just a couple of details......this was my first try at pleating to sett....I'd have a very acceptable kilt. As it is, it's just fine for casual wear, and all things considered, it s got a good "swing".. However, I would hesitate to make a 4-yard kilt out of thes stuff; either box pleated or knife pleated.

Tme to move on. Try this, maybe?. Go buy some 16 ounce X Marks tartan from F&K. Think about how you made the X-Kilt and how you could make it more easily. You understand what box-pleats are, now...take the X-Mafks fabric that you buy and fold it up with box pleats. Think it through. Then make a full-width-apron, box pleat kilt out of the X-Marks tartan, using the knowledge you've gained from making two X-Kilts. Put in a substantial canvas waistband strip over all the pleats, and back the over-apron with a strip of hair canvas, or even just heavyweight cotton canvas from JoAnne's. Use buckles and straps for your closures instead of velcro.

16 ounce stuff makes the best 4--yard kilt becasue when you have less material you kind of really need the weight.

Here's an offer. If you come to Beer and Kilts Night this month or in August, I'll bring my 4-yard box-pleat kilt in the California Tartan, and you can look at it. I bet that w2f would bring his box-pleat, too.

I have NO doubt that you could do this, and do a really nice job of it.