X-Kilt 2.0 (Beta)

[dwmoffatt]

Hello all!
Here goes my first real post.
After academic study (Barb's great book) hands on study (working with a Kilt maker that has since moved), a number of TANKS and even 3 attempts at something close to Alan H's X-kilt I thought I would share what I've done, and my latest ideas.
I found that even with directions and pictures from Alan H and F-H.C.A.G. I didn't find the X-kilt to be what I wanted. I have always enjoyed my kilts but when not dressing for the rather formal occasions I noticed 2 things...1) I like the kilt to be a touch longer and 2) I like to where it closer to my hips. I'm sure this in part to my belly and wanting a kilt more like a pair of jeans.
(Pictures to follow soon) On my X-Kilts 2.0
I found my hips to be about 5 inches more than the waist. Rather than making the difference in shaping the please I shaped the waist. I moved the aprons and first 2 pleats over the before. My thought was to treat the box pleat like a do my shaping like that. Old meets new, if you will.
I also cut the kilt to hold at my hips and be a little longer than most. Once I get the pics I'd like any constructive criticism on likes, dislikes and such.

[dwmoffatt]

2 new kilts?
I have a cotton / poly plaid with a purple base with green and red stripes bordered by black. I also have a poly blend in black. My thought with the purple plaid is can an X-Kilt like Alan H’s design with my touches be done?
With the black poly, I’m thinking I’d like to try something very different. I have a touch over four yards and the idea is an inverse box pleat right in the middle with 15 inches or so of knife pleats on each side (pointing back towards the box). I want to have a smaller apron, more X-Kilt and less TANK so the knife pleats will be more visible.

[Pleater]

HA HAAA!!

A reverse kinguisse - my now standard form of pleating - the most pleats I have done so far was - I think eleven each side - though I am going over the top with the last one, which has 25 each side!! Only another 15 to go.

I find that the reverse pleating is great in vegetation, as it does not get caught - I even thought of calling the style a ghillie kinguisse, but though it might be confusing.

If you give the folds, the outer fold of the pleats a good press before you start to pin and sew (that way you do not get an imprint of the pleats underneath) with it being a man made fibre you should get permanent pleating. Practise a bit on some spare material to find the best temperature for the iron, just hot enough and no more, and it needs a dry cloth between the pleat and the iron so it does not polish the surface. Oh - and measure everything twice is a good idea - you will not be able to get the folds out if you find you made a mistake.

This is the style for my favourite kilt, eight yards of peached cotton - the peaching is on the inside and the outside is unbrushed, and which I wear most of all that I have. I think the black kilt is becoming a standard very quickly. Mine being cotton, however, it needs a lot of ironing, and the idea of finding some material with at least one third man made fibre is rather appealing, as that seems to be the lowest limit for permanent pleating.

[Kid Cossack]

HA HAAA!!

A reverse kinguisse - my now standard form of pleating - the most pleats I have done so far was - I think eleven each side - though I am going over the top with the last one, which has 25 each side!! Only another 15 to go.

I find that the reverse pleating is great in vegetation, as it does not get caught - I even thought of calling the style a ghillie kinguisse, but though it might be confusing.

I like that, the "ghillie kinguisse" kilt!

[Pleater]

Glad you like the term - I thought it indicated the reason for the design and also that it does have some slight connection with a traditional garment.

I was really mad with myself last night - or rather early this morning. I was pressing a cotton kilt and I had left the man made fibre belt in place.

Suddenly the iron is glued to the belt. Luckily I pulled the iron up wards and the melted belt did not drip onto the kilt, but I had to turn it off and stand there holding it until it was safe to peel it off the sole of the iron and remove it from the belt loops.

You really do have to be careful with man made fibres!! Though the near disaster was purely through not paying attention, and doing things when I should have been asleep.

[dwmoffatt]

Yes, an iron in the wee hours is never good but even then you tell yourself one more pleat or just a little more with the iron. Knowing full well you should be in bed.
And you're 100 % on the reverse kinguisse.

We may have to break this thread into the X-kilt 2.0 and the new "ghillie kinguisse"

During some research and I found it. I like to fold paper to see how pleats will look and I found I liked the reverse more than the standard box.
I'll try the setting the pleats also. I’ve also found how important it is spend that little extra time to clean up the raw edges. I don’t have a serger and I’m seeing why it’s needed. 2 trips to the washer and I’m still pulling strings and threads.
The honey do list just got published so it may take a couple days to even get the iron and sewing machine back out???

[Mark Keeney]

2 new kilts?
I’m thinking I’d like to try something very different. I have a touch over four yards and the idea is an inverse box pleat right in the middle with 15 inches or so of knife pleats on each side (pointing back towards the box). I want to have a smaller apron, more X-Kilt and less TANK so the knife pleats will be more visible.

This sounds like the pleating system of a Utilikilt unless I am missing something.

[Kid Cossack]

This sounds like the pleating system of a Utilikilt unless I am missing something.

It does at that, doesn't it? I think I'd like something that was "quasi-traditional", like a cross between a UK and something more traditional. Use the reverse Kinguisse style pleating, a slightly narrower apron (say 1/3 vice 1/2 width), I think it would be "the bomb."

[Pleater]

Hmmm - maybe I should have patented the idea.....

I have to say that the method of pleating - the 'ghillie kinguisse' seems to be the one which is most apt for me - the rear facing pleats both sides mean I can get around my garden and other vegetated ground without having the kilt snatched off by every branch, when sitting I can spread the rear box pleat and let the other pleats hang free.

I do not sew down the fell these days - I found, when wearing an early version of the 'GK' (Hey New abreviation here!!!) kilt only half done that there was no real need. I am now making a kilt with 50 small pleats - due to the way the stripes fall, no way would I ever sew down 50 supressed pleats. The under pleats are alternately red and white with black and grey, the reveals are black and grey.

I make the vertical edges of the apron fall at the middle of the knee, then when I sit down the under apron pleats open and the aprons fall vertically.

[Packhound]

I like that "gillie kinguisse". For us lefties you only have to be handicapped for the "wrong" facing pleats. (As opposed to the left facing pleats.)