Tartan thickness or weight

[creativeaccents]

While visiting the fine collection at the Tartan Museum in Franklin, NC I thoroughly enjoyed the interesting stories and displays. What I didn't get around to asking was regarding the thickness of the material in the examples of the tartans that dated back to the 17 and 1800's. I was surprised to see how much thinner they were than the materials of today's "tanks". They were far more like the thickness of many of today's polyester/rayons. In looking at the number of threads per inch, it was obvious that this wasn't because of aging or wear, but that they were originally far thinner than I would have thought...a truly fine, densely woven fabric. Any idea when the heavier tartan fabrics came in?

[JRB]

That's a good question and definitely one for Matthew Newsome to answer.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Well, just like now they had different weights of fabrics available in the eighteenth and nineteenth century, as well.

In his reproduction of the 1819 Key Pattern Book of tartan firm William Wilson and Sons of Bannockburn, Peter MacDonald talks about the different types of cloth that Wilsons was producing at that time. They included Old Superfine, Superfine, Merino or Soft Tartan, Plaidens or Regimental Tartans, Coarse Kilt cloth, Fine kilt cloth, and Fine Plaid cloth.

I'm not going to go into detail on all the cloth types mentioned, but just to give an example, Wilsons' notes regarding their "Old Superfine" cloth read: "They were made from very fine wool, extremely stout and generally 19 or 20 inches wide; the warps were 12 hesps in teh pound and the weft 7s. They were primarily used for women's plaids."

Compare to "Superfine" which they describe as being "introduced about the end of the 18th century. They were made from fine wool, the warps generally 18 hesps in the pound and the weft 12."

Under "regimental tartans" Peter MacDonald explains that different qualities of cloth were woven for different ranks.

So there were a variety of weights availalbe then as now.
Aye,
Matt

[creativeaccents]

Thanks Mat!
A visit to the Tartan Museum should be on everyone's "must do" list. The broad range of exhibits, the depth and span of British and American history covered, and the quality of the guided tour was wonderful. I certainly never had any idea that the very early tartans were anything other than tank weight. There is something there for folks of all ages and interests! Too, the coffee shop a few doors down had coffee that was the equal of any I have enjoyed anywhere. We thoroughly enjoyed the real community of sitting around in the morning with folks we had never met and just listening to their stories. Please be sure to thank the whole staff for a perfect start to our morning's ride across the top of Georgia to avoid the southern route though Atlanta.