Hand Tailored

**tartanfish** · 12th February 08, 12:06 PM

Just a small question, may I ask the difference between a hand tailored Kilt and a hand sewn kilt? Just wondering if they are the same?

**Arlen** · 12th February 08, 12:16 PM

It's just to do with fit.
A hand tailored Kilt will be made to the specific measurements of one person.
A hand made kilt (Without the tailoring) is hand made to general measurements so that it is great quality but anyone of the appropriate size can wear it.

Hand made kilts are USUALLY hand tailored anyway.

**Rex_Tremende** · 12th February 08, 12:25 PM

First, welcome to the rabble.

Second, why do you ask? I have a feeling that hand tailored may also mean a machine-stitched kilt that had a few things hand-stitched in order to give the appearance of more work than was really applied. If you see that phrase next to a tag that says "designed in Scotland" and "genuine tartan" you should be suspicious.

Regards,
Rex.

**tartanfish** · 12th February 08, 12:34 PM

I am just getting ready to make a purchase, and I am a touch confused on the wording. I have looked at a number of options. Hector Russell of Scotland was one. They have a hand tailored kilt at a reasonable price. Thanks for the info in advance.

**Chef** · 12th February 08, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by tartanfish

I am just getting ready to make a purchase, and I am a touch confused on the wording. I have looked at a number of options. Hector Russell of Scotland was one. They have a hand tailored kilt at a reasonable price. Thanks for the info in advance.

The term that I am familiar with is hand sewn and I believe that is the common term. I would guess that because they chose not to use that term that there is a reason. It could be that some (or all) of the stitching is done by machine but that it is still a custom kilt. I just don't know. I think the best idea would be to call them and ask what they consider the difference to be. I would imagine they would be truthful since they are a well thought of outfit.

Remember to report back once you find out though and by the way

**The Wizard of BC** · 12th February 08, 01:45 PM

These terms are getting a little fuzzy in the last few years.
It used to be that Hand Sewn meant that the entire kilt was sewn with a needle and thread by hand with no machine.

Hand Tailored used to mean that the kilt was still custom made but many stitches were done using a sewing machine. The reasoning was that the fabric was guided thru the sewing machine by hand and eyes coordination to line everything up.

Many shops are now using the term Hand Tailored to denote a kilt where the outside of the pleats are sewn by hand and those stitches which don't show or are covered are done by machine.

But if the price seems significantly less for Hand Tailored than for the same kilt Hand Sewn you can bet the the majority of the stitching is done by machine. Possibly even the pleating.

Please remember that in most cases it is the fabric which accounts for most of the cost of your kilt. Most Kiltmakers charge about the same for their labor. The only way to lower the price of the kilt is to use less expensive fabric or find a way to lower the labor cost. That usually means machine stitching or overseas labor. These are not bad things, and I'm not knocking the less expensive kilts. It is just that there are only about three things that will effect the price of your kilt. Cost of the Fabric, Cost of the Labor and the Cost of your overhead to run the shop.

**RockyR** · 12th February 08, 02:37 PM

Originally Posted by Rex_Tremende

First, welcome to the rabble.

Second, why do you ask? I have a feeling that hand tailored may also mean a machine-stitched kilt that had a few things hand-stitched in order to give the appearance of more work than was really applied. If you see that phrase next to a tag that says "designed in Scotland" and "genuine tartan" you should be suspicious.

Regards,
Rex.

The difference between "hand sewn" and "Hand Finished" has nothing to do with cheap kilts and the ammount of work involved in the kilts. "Hand Finished" means (as it implies) that the kilt is PARTIALLY sewn by hand, PARTIALLY by machine. Hand Sewn implies that the whole kilt was sewn by hand. Hand Tailored is a new one to me... I assume that it means that it was "custom made" for someone's exact measurements (which can mean machine OR hand sewn).

Most of the mills that offer MTM kilts as well as material wholesale (i.e. HOE, Lochcarron, Strathmore) machine sew and hand finish their kilts and I don't think you'd confuse them with $100 Pakistan kilts.

All that being said, you are 100% correct on your last point. If the kilt's tag says "designed in Scotland" and "genuine tartan", then it is most likely a machine sewn kilt made in Pakistan.

**RockyR** · 12th February 08, 02:44 PM

Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC

...It is just that there are only about three things that will effect the price of your kilt. Cost of the Fabric, Cost of the Labor and the Cost of your overhead to run the shop.

Yup. Also, the old adages hold VERY true...

You get what you pay for.
It's it's too good to be true, it usually is.

If you see a deal that looks too good to be true, check with other customers on XMARKS! If the company has been "out in the public" for a while, odds are that someone here has dealt with them and can give a review.

**Rex_Tremende** · 12th February 08, 03:16 PM

In no way did I mean to discredit the fine, hard-working craftsmen who work wonders with a sewing machine. I was, however, suggesting that context means something, cautioning that language can be used to mislead, and that a buyer should assemble a lot of information in order to make good purchasing decisions.

Regards,
Rex.